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Hi
I am (finally) doing a dry build of my basket case Scott (actually more of a 3D jigsaw)
It has an ‘M’ in the frame number so I guess its a 27 Squirrel with a long undertray. over the past year or so I have collected or made or refurbished all the major components that were missing. The only large item left (I am sure there are many small ones hence the dry build) is an exhaust system I do have a rough pipe but its a RH side one and things look as if that side gets busy with all the brake levers kick starts etc so I am looking for a LH (standard?)system . a silencer (fishtail type) would be a bonus. (There was one set of pipes on e-bay I missed that went for a song last week, but that looked like it was RH too) concourse finish is not essential but a supplier who makes new ones would be a less favored second option
Hi.
Your Scott is a Flying Squirrel or “Flyer” in SOC parlance. If you call it a Squirrel it will cause confusion with a different model of lighter construction and with a two-speed transmission and no conventional gearbox. The 1927 Flyer should have a transverse front “coffeepot” expansion chamber with pressed or maybe spun steel endcaps, and TWO separate tailpipes of fairly small bore. The club should have a detailed drawing as one was done by the late John Underhill many years ago, and I used a copy of it when I restored my 1927 Flyer. I found that it was pretty noisy as there is no proper silencer at all, but at speed it made a fabulous note, the true YOWL ! The factory was aware that they were a bit raucous, and offered two auxiliary silencers as an extra. These were a cut-down version (shorter) of the usual Howarth silencer fitted to vintage Flyers, TT Replicas, and Sprint Specials. Again the Club should have a detailed drawing, and Ken Lack and Tim Sharp used to sell them ready made.
Brian
Hi again.
Further to last posting I can supply precision-cut stainless steel exhaust flanges to get you started on fabricating a coffepot, and a guy in the next village to me can make the rest in stainless steel. I’m not sure just who is sitting on the drawings, but hope that they will read this and help you, IF YOU ARE A MEMBER….?
The flanges are £25 plus postage, and my contact details in “Sources of Supply”
Brian
Hi Brian
Yes I am a member
A coffee pot system ‘sounds’ the way to go lets see if the drawings surface…..
Roy Fisher made one of these systems for his 1927 Flyer in the last few years. Try contacting him via a proivate message as I am sure he has access to the drawings.
Someone made some pictures and drawings of such a system fitted to Flyer for my own use as I have 27 Flyer too. I will check if they still wonder around somewhere on my old laptop…
Cheers,
Erik
Hi timetc,
I made a blogpost on the reference material I have on the 1927 Flyer exhaust.
You can read it here
Cheers,
Erik
The drawing mentioned by Brian should be with the Club Spares Scheme but I do have a copy that I made before the drawings got passed on with everything else from Gill Swan’s tenure. I am in the middle of a move at present and would need to find somewhere to photocopy A3 size sheets but you are welcome to a copy. There is a second anonymous drawing which is slightly different for the 1930 Flyer but which gives no detail for the outlet.
Any chance of a few of these be made at the same time to go in the Spares Scheme?
Jon Hodges
Hi timetc,
You are lucky… Jons answer triggered me…I suddenly remembered that Gill had send me a copy of this drawings too a few years back.
I had a quick look and I found them!
So Jon, do not bother to find a place to copy yours as I will throw my copies under the scanner at work tomorrow.
Cheers,
Erik
I have just updated my blogpost with the drawings Jon mentioned.
Cheers,
Erik
I’ve just spotted this post. Yes, I made a ’27 system for my long frame Flyer about 4 years ago from a drawing provided by John Underhill. the drawings were in the form of a set of A4 photocopies (which I still have, although they’re a bit oily by now) patched together with sellotape to make the full size drawing. I’m no engineer but managed to cut & shut the various parts & got a local welder to assemble them. The tailpipes curve under the frame & turn outwards at the end and were bent by a company in Coventry & subsequently nickel plated. The end caps I turned in aluminium. The downpipes & pepperpot I painted with black exhaust paint which has largely disappeared now & it’s beginning to look scruffy. I had a lot of trouble getting the various joints to seal as the pepperpot distorted somewhat during welding. A point to note is that the drawing that John provided shows straight downpipes (which is what I made) but I have since seen contemporary pictures which I think show curved pipes. Perhaps someone else could comment on this. Also, because the tailpipes are quite short and end at the front of the rear rim the back of the bike gets into a bit of a mess, I’ve used Castrol R which doesn’t help. It is very loud and vintage sounding & I sometimes wish it was just a little quieter but I’m told by others that it sounds really nice when “on song”.
If I can help in any way please don’t hesitate to get in touch via PM
Roy.F
Just noticed you live in Bedfordshire, I live near Kettering so possibly not far away. You’re welcome to view (& listen to!) my “Flyer” if it helps.
Roy. F
Hi All.
If you look at an old copy (late 1920’s) of the “Book of the Scott” handbook, or a 1927 catalogue, the short stubs from engine to coffeepot do appear to turn down rather than just straight stubs. Similarly the ends of the two tailpipes turn outwards at their extremities in order to deflect the oily clag away from the back end of the bike. When I was running my ’27 I would douse the back end and rear wheel with WD40 on returning from a run, making the oil mist deposits MUCH easier to clean off. Without doing that it was very difficult to remove, especially if left for a day or two, when it would go like wax. If Roy is running on castor-base oil that must go like a hard varnish, that nothing will dissolve except oven cleaner, and that takes the paint off too!
It should of course be noted that the 1927 version has the two tailpipes running from the body of the coffeepot, whilst the 1929-on version has cast alloy end-caps to the coffeepot and just one tailpipe that runs from the left-hand side end-cap. A very few 1934 short-stroke Flyers, with a bolt-on footchange conversion, had the tailpipe on the right-hand side, to avoid fouling the left-hand brake pedal needed with a footchange machine. After 1934 the coffepot was abandoned, together with the shortstroke engine, and the right-hand side siamesed exhaust pipe became the standard fitting on Flyers.
One version of the 1927 catalogue shows the front splash shield BEHIND the coffeepot, but I think that was just a bit of artistic licence on what is clearly a heavily “touched-up” illustration. The production version splash shield went in front of the coffeepot, and had short steel straps locating onto the centre thru’ bolt/stud of the coffeepot. The shield itself was made out of approx 20swg tinplate, with a rolled and wired edge, and it went from the bottom edge of the radiator, right down and around the bottom of the coffeepot, protecting the sparkplugs and entire engine from spray, roadsalt, grit, and horse-muck. VERY few to be seen these days, a great pity, and so few owners these days bother to get ’em just right and to correct spec.
Brian
Thank you all for all your help I will now retire to consider my options
This topic caught my attention because of the reference, by Brian Marshall, to the “True Yowl” . The late Titch Allen, writing about the various Scott exhaust systems, also said that the sound from a shortstroke engine with a coffee-pot exhaust was the sweetest and most musical of all. Of all the iconic features of a Scott the yowl is surely the most treasured and inspiring. The Club magazine was not named “Overhung Crank” , “Honeycomb”, “Red Cylinderblock” , or “Torque Band”
was it?
“Too raucus” was another Marshall comment, but a loud exhaust can be an important safety factor on our overcrowded roads, waking up cardrivers to our presence. Plenty of modern bikes are quite loud anyway and they seem to get away with it. Some may disagree. Lofty Avis built an extra long, dismantleable, Burgess for his ’49er which he said allowed him to ride right into his gateway, after the pubs had closed, without waking the Missus. His SuperSilencer, looking well used, is sitting in my workshop and if anyone really wants to try it out they would be welcome to, for the cost of postage only.
An interesting consideration is the possible effect of the coffee-pot expansion chamber and “stinger” on the engine performance. Can it be tuned to enhance power or torque in a similar way to the modern twostrokes I wonder. Tim Sharp thought so after fitting one which he believed was too voluminous.
The cult of originality would probably deter most owners of later, longstroke bikes from playing around with a coffee-pot but if I ever get around to resurrecting my 1958 Special I think I would want to have a go.