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Last year the Flyer had a leaking radiator and I used – unsuccessfully – K-Seal.
I’ve had the rad repaired by Bryan & Son of Tunbridge Wells.
While the rad was off I have de-coked the head and pistons.
While de-coking the head a quantity of K-Seal residual powder came out which must indicate that there is powder residue in the block.
I have experimented and tried to dissolve the powder in boiling water but without success.
Does anyone have a bright idea for flushing out the block without removing it?
Next question.
Dave Bushell very kindly sent me the sequence for tightening the head, torque settings etc.
The instructions suggest that a room-temperature vulcanising (rtv) silicone be used.
Previously, I have used ct1 sealant and adhesive but it sets solid and I doubt if the head could ever be removed at a later date.
Can any member recommend a particular brand?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Regards
Frank Hubbard
I’m sorry you did not get a good result with the K seal, i used it because I could not staunch the leak on my 47 rad and it was a final ditch effort, luckily in my case it worked .
I too have found success using Ktec – sorted out a persistent leak & flushed out clean
when I did my usual drain down for the winter months. Absolutely no overheating problems
when in use during the 2017 riding season (2000mls covered) which I might have expected
if there was any clogging or restriction in circulation, my radiator is a fin type not honeycomb
by the way.
Mike Reynolds
I know a classic bike dealer in West Sussex who keeps on pestering me to buy my battered old spare rad. He bought his Scott cheaply as the previous owner had used some sort of proprietry rad weld stuff but only succeded in largely blocking up the rad.
Proceed with caution, I think.
Correction: My previous post should have red K-seal NOT Ktec which is the solid state voltage regulator
in my magdyno !!!!!
Personally, I would never use a sealant in a Scott cooling system. The water passages in the radiator core are very fine, and easily clogged. If just one or two tubes in a honeycomb radiator are leaking I would just plug them with a silicone mastic type sealant as it is so easily removed at a later date if necessary.
Thanks for the input.
I’ve just spent the past couple of hours flushing everything through with boiling water until it emerged clear.
Kind regards.
Frank
The type of rad cores we are talking about should be film type core, not brass honeycomb
I took my rad off and set it up on the bench with the top and bottom outlets connected with a hose, poured in K-seal mixed with boiling water and left it to cool down. When cool I flushed it out put it back on the bike and it hasn’t leaked since.