That stuff is basically washing up liquid without the bubbles. As the biggest problem in transferring heat from the water to the outside is the boundary layer it should work although to what extent I would not want to guess. Many years ago I had a student that did some work on boundary layers, he calculated that if it were possible to entirely remove the boundary layer effect power station cooling towers could be reduced to the size of a three-bedroom house. He didn’t say how big the bathroom was but it does serve to indicate the scale of the effect. As it also seems to claim it has corrosion inhibiting qualities can’t see it doing any harm to anything other than your wallet.
I’ve been trawling through some old data regarding ignition settings on bikes and while most of it refers to 4strokes the angles for full advance ignition settings are frequently quoted as in excess of 30° so maybe 35° for the Scott makes sense after all. The trouble is that finding out exactly the setting that suits your engine with any certainty is a test bed job. (When I think of all the Heenan Froude brakes I’ve scrapped I want to cry!) However all is not lost if you can fit an accurate rev counter of some sort it is just possible, if a bit dangerous, to do some testing on the bike. The ignition is first set slightly early; the machine is run up to maximum revs in top gear and the ignition is then retarded a little. If the revolutions increase retard the ignition a little more until the revs start to drop back. It then only remains to reset full advance to the best setting.
If at the end of it you are not parboiled, broken the crank, run or out of road or all three at least you will know the ignition is not the problem!
