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#9663
Mike Fennell
Participant

It might be worth considering the advice of Lofty Avis (in 1959) on starting a re-built Scott engine.
It assumes that everything has been assembled in good order, and correctly timed.

1. Drain crankcase contents and re-fit drain plugs
2. Remove transfer ports, pour in 1 – 1/2 eggcups full ( = about 15ml ! ) of starting mixture
and replace covers.
STARTING MIXTURE is 1 part lubricating oil to 2 parts petrol
3. Engine will invariably start, first pot over.
4. Dense smoke may exude, and if too much mixture is used the plugs may oil up.
5. If she smokes profusely give her a quick run down the road to get rid of surplus oil, say 1/4 mile.
6. Keep her at fast idle on the stand and check oil pump. both sides should be delivering oil
WITHOUT BUBBLES in the sight feeds.
7. If bubbles are present open up that adjuster until oil spurts through cleanly.
8. Set adjusters to 1 drop in 4 pulsations ( can later be cut back to 1 in 6 for general riding.)
9. Take her for about a mile and recheck pump for regular feed without bubbles.
10. Try a couple of miles and check again. The pump should be set when the engine and pump are hot.
The delivery when cold will be excessive but this is one of the major faults of the system – just
wind it up from cold to clear the oil.
11. ALWAYS check the pump when going on to a fast road and again after 5 – 10 miles at say 60mph.
They will let you down at the most unfortunate times and in a treacherous manner otherwise.
12. To stop engine for a delayed restart, clamp hand over carb intake, open throttle and stall her
by strangulation. Petrol drawn in will make an easy start.

The rationale behind all this is to ensure there is enough petrol in the crankcases for starting.
Sucking it in from the carb by kicking and/or pushing is exhausting.