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Tagged: Flying Squirrel, Project, Rebuild
Edward, I’ve sent you a message/photos on messenger re tank
Regards Peter
Dear All
Thats fantastic information from Lewis on Webbs, it seams to me that just about everyone copied them and before they new it identical and similar forks where being made for other bikes. The thing I found hard is when a set of forks pops up on eBay or at an auto jumble they may look like Webbs but are they? I couldn’t find a set of definitive dimensions for Webb forks on a Scott. The Webb catalogue doesn’t give dimensions and indicates that the made forks to just about all lengths widths and sizes. It’s helped now of course by the fact that I have a set of Webbs that’s are defiantly for a Scott and the vellocett owners club where I found some dimensioned information (attached) .I still wonder how they make the tapered tube, I am sure the machine used is impressive.
So on with the build, the next thing I did was bought a lathe. I have spent many a happy hour in Roger Moss’s workshop talking about Scotts and machine tools and I have admired Rogers collection of Smart & Brown machines. Smart and Brown built lathes etc in Biggleswade not far from where I live and there machines where absolutely top notch. They didn’t make that many compared to other manufacturers, these machines where tool room lathes for very high precision work and they came at a high price. Most of the machines are huge and just too big for me but there model S or SAB lathe is small being a copy of a South Bend 9” lathe built to a very high spec. I took me ages to find one but as soon as I did I snapped it up (photo attached). I am no expert, not by a long stretch but it serves my purposes. It means I can make up things like the attached picture of a rear axle adjuster nut, in stainless!
I now turned my attention to the gearbox. The casting its self was in good condition having never really been converted to a foot change but the end casting was in poor shape. The kickstart mechanism had obviously over time broken the cover plate and it had been welded up and repaired but it looked like a bodged job. I tried to get another from the spares scheme but it was sold out unfortunately. Salvation came when I purchased a box of bits which had an end cover which was not new but in much better shape and I decided to use this.
Now for the gear wheels! The box had a set of old vintage wide wheels in it and they were in a sorry state, I hadn’t seen anything like it. When I purchased the bike it looked like the box had been cleaned up and was in good shape but the wheels where dreadful. It’s was the first indication I had that what I purchased was a bit of a pup. I sent the photos (attached) to Glyn Chambers who attends my local Scott meet in London Colney and he mentioned that this was probably caused by a type of oil which was Thicksotropic ?? Which became more fluid the more it was agitated, it was discovered later that when left it became acidic and ate metal. Glyn look at his spare parts and came to the rescue providing me with some of the wheels I needed and the Scott spares scheme providing the rest. I now have a much better modern close ratio box for the bike.
The bearings in the gearbox where shot and so where the bronze bushes so new bearings were purchased and I took some much better bushings out of another old gearbox and put it all back together. I have to say I did it about 8 times before I got it right but at the end of the day I was left with a usable box. As soon as the madness of Corvid 19 is over I will sent it up to Eddie to get it done properly but until then on with the next job, clutch!
Keep safe everyone and best wishes to you all
Edward
Oh one other thing, kick starts. The bike came with a complete kickstart, many of the parts where purchased from the spares scheme nut should the kick start lever be straight or cranked?? I was always told cranked but the 1929 catalogue shows straight. Just another one of those Scott mystery’s …..
Ed
the cranked kick start is for post vintage Scotts which had RH exhaust.
Glyn.
Thanks Glyn and I hope everyone is keeping well
I next dismantled the clutch and I have to say it was in a bit of a state, very rusty with gunk and grease covering the whole thing. A good spray with gunk, a quick wash off and just a little heat and everything came apart. Now I don’t have a lot of experience with cork clutches in the past I have used the bonded type on my Yamaha race bike and when I was bantam racing we used steel on steel (different hardnesses) plates which meant you could slip the clutch going into a corner to maintain revs so you had plenty of power when you went to come out of the other side. Anyhow some of the cork simply fell out of the plates and the basket, some looked very shiny I suppose from friction and all of the metal plates had the tangs bent or dented. I decided not for the first time that if a job is worth doing its worth doing well an ordered a new basket, plates and springs from the spares scheme. These where the resin bonded type and when I received them I was very please to see how well made they are. The clutch went back together without a problem but similarly to the gear box I had to reassemble it about four times. I think it was a case of just doing things in the correct order. Now I am writing this its got me thinking about the old clutch. If anyone can point me in the direction of an article on clutch cork I would be glad to read it.
One or two final points on the clutch, the original seals where i guess made of felt dipped in tallow? and where not actually in bad condition. They where however quite badly misshaped so I ordered new clutch sealy made from modern materials from Richard at Scott Parts. They went in and finally I had a a clutch attached to the gearbox ready to go back into the bike. I also picked up an old set of box spanners on eBay for a few pounds that allowed me to tighten the bolt which retains the clutch onto the main shaft.
Next job was to get the wheels back in the frame and have a rolling chassis
Keep safe everyone
Edward
Enjoying following your refurbishment journey Edward.
Lovely series of posts…
Peter