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Is there a correct method of adjusting the starter chain?My kickstarter will engage fine but sometimes the chain anchor seems to jam at full stroke against the two speed frame bracket.I have tried to lengthen the chain with the adjustment screw but then the ratchet doesn’t engage reliably.Any thoughts please.
Had another look tonight.I know think maybe that the problem may be at the kickstart lever end.There doesn’t appear to be a stop to limit the movement and the crank that fastens to the chain comes around so far that it hits the hub. 😕
Hi. It may be your technique that is wrong…..For starters (couldn’t resist the pun), don’t have the bike on its stand when using the kickstart; and try and get out of the usual British bike style of kickstarting . Stand astride the bike and kick backwards. I know it’s awkward at first, being a long way back, but it really does avoid “bottoming” the mechanism. Hope this helps, and let us know how you get on.
Thanks Brian.
I think half of my problem has been kicking it too hard to try to start.I have discovered that even though the magneto was “reconditioned” just previous to me buying the bike the cam ring appeared to be worn on one lobe and it was almost impossible to get similar points gaps on the two cylinders.I have just got a new cam ring from dave lindsley and i am about to fit it and give it a try.I think this and a newly rebuilt and unfamiliar engine have contributed to the starting problems.Any other hints and tips on starting would be much appreciated.
bye for now.
Adrian 😀
Hello again. If you are unfamiliar with Scotts, and/or vintage two-strokes in general, do remember the basics when starting:-
Petrol on, tickle the carb until the float chamber overflows, then close the air lever, retard ignition slightly or even leave on full advance, and turn the engine over on the kickstart gently with the throttle fully closed so as to prime it. Then open the throttle somewhere between one quarter to one third open, and give the proverbial “long swinging kick”.
As soon as it is running make sure that oil is getting to the engine via the drippers ( or pump).
Fingers crossed!
Cheers. Brian
Not mentioned so far is using the traction control mechanism (half-compression lever) to ease kick starting on a 2-speed Scott.
Graham
Interesting point about the compression valves.What are they actually meant to do??? They are nice and free with good spring return but make little or no perceptible difference to the amount of effort that is required to turn the engine.Also when the engine is running i can just hear a very slight difference in the exhaust note when i operate the valves,but it certainly would not stop the engine.Do i have a problem????? 😕
@BRIAN MARSHALL wrote:
Hello again. If you are unfamiliar with Scotts, and/or vintage two-strokes in general, do remember the basics when starting:-
Petrol on, tickle the carb until the float chamber overflows, then close the air lever, retard ignition slightly or even leave on full advance, and turn the engine over on the kickstart gently with the throttle fully closed so as to prime it. Then open the throttle somewhere between one quarter to one third open, and give the proverbial “long swinging kick”.
As soon as it is running make sure that oil is getting to the engine via the drippers ( or pump).
Fingers crossed!
Cheers. Brian
Thanks for that Brian.I really do appreciate any input from board members as i am finding scotting a very steep learning curve 🙄 😀
In my opinion the half compression valves are totally unneccesary. With the very modest compression a Scott has I never find it very hard to turn the engine over.
But of course, this is based on my two machines that both have the valves disabled or not installed.
I have a 600cc engine, and since I am not a big guy I find that I can stand on the kickstart and the engine does not go over compression. The half compression valves do work for me.
For those that do not use the half-compression valves, what do you do with the left hand and lever?
Graham
@Graham wrote:
For those that do not use the half-compression valves, what do you do with the left hand and lever?
I am a bit puzzled with this. What do you mean exactly??? My two speeder does not have a left hand lever. My Flyer obviously has the clutch on the LH side.
And your bike obviously have a lot more compression than mine (but that is not that surprising as both my Scotts are in need of a rebore…)
Hi Erik
The left hand lever operates the half compression valves and when pulled fully in, also operates the mag cut out.
could somebody email or post a pic of the mag cut out switch please??? I was going to put a horn switch under saddle and use that as a cut out but would prefer to use a switch connected to the lever. 😀
Hi Kas and Graham
Graham, go to technicalities chapter 7 section 2 page 11 for a description of a mod that uses the left hand lever as a clutch to dis-engage the low speed gear on a 2 speeder and kas go to chapter 2 section 1 page 25 for a drawing of the mag cut out switch set-up.
Dave
Thanks Dave 😀 I really need to brush up on my technicalities 😳