Advice on tank repair please

[chris wastell]

my 1938 fuel tank has finally given up the ghost. The central tube has come loose and at the front, I can wiggle it around, All be it, very slightly. Can anyone advise on the best method of repair. I can’t see how I’ll ever get more solder to take as I can’t get any flux in there, I expect. How much of a mating face is there inside the tank with the mounting tube? Any help or advice would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance.

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

With petrol tanks the big issue is SAFETY, and a lot of tin-bashers won’t touch them due to the risk of explosion. A big problem is getting remaining fuel/ hydrocarbon residues out of nooks, crannies, seams, etc.. I’ve seen the ‘experts’ use lots of boiling water, and from your RAF days you may remember that aircraft tanks are purged with nitrogen for ages before any work is allowed, even just access for inspection. A soldering iron is a LOT safer than a blowtorch, but it has to be a very big iron !
I would try a soldering iron job, as you are less likely to run into danger, but heat it up well away from the job, and make sure that there are absolutely no fuel residue smells detected on a sniff test after the boiling water treatment. If in any doubt repeat the boiling water treatment again and again, or just don’t do the job… Be it on your own head….
Brian

[Barrie]

Use Panel wipe to remove the residue first, then the trick with the water, this will remove any oil residue, hot water filled right to the rim will remove any vapour ,then empty and dry out, final test before any work , use your nose to detect if anything is left.
If containers are sent in the post or by courier that have residue left in them many carriers will refuse to transport them,
so whatever you do, the tank must be as clean and odourless as possible.

[Orgasmatron]

I sent my tank to Graham Moag, who makes honeycomb radiators. He did a superb job of re-soldering the oil tank within the petrol tank.
It didn’t cost very much to send the tank to Northern Ireland.
In my opinion (which my wife says is worthless!) it’s always better to get repairs like this done by someone who knows what they are doing.
Chris.

[chris wastell]

Thanks for the help chaps. Ive been purging the tank for a month now as petrol fumes really do scare me. However, I like the idea of Graham Moag doing it properly! 😀

[Bob Mather]

Hi Chris,
Brian’s tips with the boiling water and to only use a soldering iron and not a blowtorch anywhere near the tank is the way to go. I worked as a boilermaker on ship refuelling barges, road petrol tankers as well as vehicle and boat fuel tanks at times. I also used oxyacetylene and arc welding inside petrol farms which can be rather stressful. We used steam for several hours on road tankers and then checked for fumes. After all the washing out and the sniff test, put an air line passing a small amount of air inside the fuel tank while you are working on it. This will remove any fumes which can reappear from any trapped fuel inside seams etc. as no fumes one day does not mean there will be no fumes the next day.
Regards,
Bob Mather.

[chris wastell]

Annoyingly I had several huge old soldering irons for years. One day, in a clear out I decided that I’d never find a used for them and they went to the tip. About a year later I bought my Scott! Hindsight eh? Anyway, Graham says he’s happy to have a go at my tank so that’s a relief 8)

[Tman]

I don’t think I’ve ever thrown away any useable tool in my whole life precisely because of the scenario you’ve just described.
As my old dad was fond of saying, “they don’t eat anything..” 😉

[chris wastell]

I totally agree with your Dad’s saying, Tman but unfortunately a lot of what I should have hoarded fell victim to Service life. The frequent moves made me ruthless due to restrictions of space and weight.
BUT the real reason for this post is to say that Graham Moag has made a great looking repair to my fuel tank, I got it back a couple of days ago, and a very fair price. So he’s your man 🙂

[Author]

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