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So, from what date did Scott offer their nuts, bolts and other bits in chrome finish? I know that chrome plating was generally available from around 1920, which seems to indicate that a 1930 bike should have chrome bits and pieces.
As nice as good nickel plating looks, it seems to be wrong for my 1930 TT Rep ; all the current nuts and bolts seem to be chrome.
Thackeray saga ongoing. I found a round section spring at a local engineering firm and, being 21mm i/d and 25mm o/d with an uncompressed length of 19mm (compressed it’s 5.5mm), it seems that it will work ok on the rear stand (fits nicely into the recess and can be squeezed in completely with two hands – with difficulty) ; but they only had one! I searched the Net and can’t find anything matching this. Does anyone know where a similar spring can be found?
As a last resort, said engineering firm will grind down some M20 Thackeray washers for me.
I’ve got a boxfull of the darned things somewhere, already been looking, (between granddaughterly demands), but not found ’em yet so if you can hang on a bit . . .
I think they will need a bit of modification on the O.D. but I have a workshop of sorts so I’ll see what I can do. Can you post the exact dimensions that you are looking for?
The Thackeray spring on the gear change lever (well, the one I have) measures 21mm inside diameter and 27mm outside diameter with an uncompressed height of approcimately 10mm.
This also fits into the rear stand recesses quite nicely. However, if they were to be ground down, an outside diameter of 26mm maximum would be best.
1930, not 1920, was the year that the motorcycle manufacturers went from nickel to chrome, BUT, don’t forget that the Great Depression had started, and Scott’s output plummeted between their best ever year 1929, to 1930, and they were hanging on by the skin of their teeth. They had quite large stocks of nickel plated parts to use up before they turned to chromium plating, but some of their suppliers had changed, and so bikes had a mix of nickel and chrome. Webb fork links, star-washers, and adjuster nuts, some Andre damper parts, some Binks carburettor parts, and other bits and pieces, were the first things to be chromed, whereas handlebar levers, twistgrips, filler caps, and nuts and bolts, etc.. lingered on in nickel until old stock was used up. A classic example was petrol and oil taps, which were nickel until the end of production in 1950, and Matt Holder in Birmingham was still using old Shipley stock until the 1970’s !! My penultimate Brum Scott WDO 408L had nickel plated taps. Despite lots of asking and looking through the factory records, I have not been able to find out when radiators had their changeover year.
In some years in the 30’s when they were really struggling, many fasteners were not plated at all, and were just a black painted finish, or perhaps, Parkerised, Bonderised, Coslettised, or some other cheap finish. I have a works photo of the 1934 Flyer, and the black fasteners can be seen quite clearly. This situation would change from year to year, and probably from week to week, so there are no hard and fast definitions to be made….
Looks like I will have to get my chrome nuts etc either painted black or nickel plated (most likely the latter) to make it aesthetically pleasing. The mixture of chrome and nickel certainly does not look good (exacerbated by the few stainless steel bolts that I had to procure).
Polished nickel it is!
Hi, If you mirror polish your stainless fasteners, they will look more acceptable, especially if subsequently heated up with a blowtorch, when stainless will then take on a slightly yellowish tint, that is very difficult to separate visually from nickel. Try it on one or two bolts, and if you don’t like it just repolish it to take away the colour. If you talk to a supplier of metal polishing supplies they will gladly tell you what kind of mops and soap to use on stainless steel, but smooth away any machining marks first, using emery cloth, or you will take forever to get a mirror shine. Your polisher motor needs to be at least half a horsepower in order to get the job done reasonably quickly. There are plenty of videos on the internet showing how to polish various metals. Always wear eye protection, a dust mask, and thick leather gloves.
Placing the article in a heated tray of clean, dry sand will give much more control of the temperature and thus the colour. Keep the article moving and watch it like a hawk because the temperature range for any particular colour is minimal.
Spent nearly all of last Saturday hunting for those darned washers with no luck, I’ve not given up you understand but if you can source them elsewhere you should. I will keep looking but they must be well hidden.
Sorry if I raised your hopes!
Many thanks for looking.
I have now located some 20mm i/d Thackeray washers on Ebay and will grind them down to the correct o/d.
If you would rather not have the stainless items be seen you can get them nickel plated too, I went this way on a bike (non Scott) I am restoring