Clutch question, sorry

[eyeguy]

My new 35 TT Rep has a clutch that’s so heavy I can barely pull the lever in, it’s a cable snapper waiting to happen. I re- routed the cable to no real effect, so contacted the previous owner who told me he’d fitted much heavier springs than stock to allow him to climb 1:4 hills!
I had the springs he’d removed in a box of bits and refitted the. Today, leaving the tops of the drum screws flush with the bottom of the slots in the spring retaining nuts. It’s much, much, lighter now, but slips a bit – of course!
Obviously, I have to go back in and tighten the springs, but two questions, if I may:
1) how much tighter
2) what are the three post pins attached to the pressure plate and how should I adjust them?

The plates themselves were removed and cleaned and are in very good condition. It’s a right pain to do this job as he’d fitted a 24 tooth gearbox sprocket and I have to slacken off the gearbox in order to get enough clearance to remove it, so I’d like to get away with just doing it the once more.

Oh ,and, I’m assuming this is negative earth? It’s not charging, so that’s next on the list!

Best
Paul

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

You can easily refit three heavier springs alternately with the lighter ones, and that should do the trick. The spring retaining nuts should be tightened down so that their outer slotted face is flush with the ends of the studs, or a bit tighter if there is still a bit of slip, but don’t overtighten them or the springs could get ‘coil bound’. Do you have the three 3/8″ diameter solid thrust pins or the adjustable type with locknuts ? They need to be adjusted so that there is a few thou” clearance between their inner ends and the ring of the thrust bearing. The thrust bearing MUST NOT be under constant load or it will rapidly wear out. It should only spin when the clutch is being used. Refer to ‘Technicalities’ for more information.

I would suggest that a 24 tooth sprocket is far too big except for racing, and exacerbating the clutch slip problem. Assuming you have a 19″ rear wheel, a 21 tooth sprocket is what you need.
Brian

[eyeguy]

That’s great, Brian, thank you. Just been reading technicalities. Also in the box is a 21t sprocket, so I’ll be refitting that, too. It’s funny how long term ownership can leave you with a machine that’s so personalised it’s actually …challenging for anyone else to ride. I’ve just bought a Cammy Velo which has been used very regularly and fastidiously maintained in near factory condition. It’s quite superb. The Scott, despite being told it’s in perfect order, doesn’t charge and has this weird clutch/ gearing setup. Still, keeps me busy!
Thanks again
Paul

[eyeguy]

Sunday update
I took Brian’s advice and refitted the three stronger springs, then adjusted the pins. The clutch is heavier now, but feels smooth. Not had a Cham e to try it yet, hopefully tomorrow.
Cheers
P

[Roger Moss]

Hi eyeguy. I suggest you consider fitting an alternative clutch release from Eddie Shermer. This is a well known and fully proven design that I have used for over 30 years on my racer. better smoother action and about 30% less effort on the handlebar lever. Roger

[Author]

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