has any one ever tried running a coil ignition Scott on a twin lead coil, did it work.
I’m sure they have, but I don’t know how successful it was because you would have no advance-and-retard, unless there was some way of rotating the points housing on the crankcase door. The double-ended coil from one of the Japanese two-stroke twins would be well up to the job, although a dynamo or alternator is also needed, to keep the battery topped up.
I run a ‘hall effect’ pickup mounted inside the original distributor on our Brum. Sparking 2 6 volts coils at the same time (wasted spark). Works well and no condensor or points to mess with
If anyone is still interested in this question, Harley have used a twin lead coil from about the late 20’s.
I have used WLA coils on various things over the last 10 years or so, 6volt, easy to get and the current quality and price seems ok.
A twin output 6 volt coil (12 volts is better still) has worked on my bike for the past 13 years. It was supplied by Boyer Bransden who also made the ignition control device which controls advance and retard. A good charging system and battery are required of course but dynamos seem to be reliable when used with one of those solid state regulators. The spark triggering is controlled by a simple device mounted inside the modified magneto. Ignition timing is easy to set and a strobe lamp can be used if you’ve got one.
I can send a few photos of the installation if you wish via E-mail.
There is more to this subject than is immediately apparent, but the benefits are reliable accurately timed sparks.
Hope this is helpful but get in touch if you need to know more.
The best laid plans ………….; Just got back from a 250 Km ride in the foothills of the Pyrenees south of Tarbes last weekend. The next day was carrying out (yet more) adjustments to the Silk oil pump. Engine cuts out after 5 minutes running. Dead as the proverbial. Turns out 1 of my 6 volt (Wassell) made in Taiwan coils has dropped dead. Had the same system running on the Ariel Arrow for 5 years now and not a bother. But that is using the the 2 x 6 volt coils made by Uncle Joe in 1962 !! Lesson to be learned methinks.
Kept glaring at the dead coil,knowing full well that they are a non-servicable item. Looking,turning over,putting down,picking up again. Whats that ? Tiny black spot on the top of the positive terminal stud. Scrape scrape, its a hole ! I reckon that when they are assembled, the 2 ends of the windings come up through the centre of the studs, the ‘bakelite/plastic top, crimped to the tin can and the terminals then soldered. Except that one of mine wasn’t, or barely. Quick resolder job, 2.5 ohms resistance, and normal sparking has been resumed. Hooray !!!! 😀
Very little electrical stuff is made to be repairable these days, and it is all sealed stuff where you can’t even get the top off to look inside. Just throw it away and get a new one….
A few days ago my Clarke bench-top parts washer died on me. Two years and 11 months old, so nearly two years out of the maker’s guarantee period. The mains light was lit, but the pump wasn’t working. I checked the connections in the switch housing and they were OK, so off to Machine Mart for a replacement pump. With VAT the price was over £38, so I declined the purchase and had a look on eBay….. I bought a complete new parts washer, identical in every way to the Clarke one, but with a different label,for £35, delivery free of charge. It came the next morning, by courier. Another case of ‘Rip-off Britain’.
I hate throwing stuff away Brian. From an era when a) you couldn’t afford to, and b) things were repairable
Too true ! My first car, in 1965 or 1966, was a Mini, and if it ever broke down it would be either the SU petrol pump, which was exposed to all the road muck and spray on the rear subframe, or something in the distributor, (typically the points closed up or condenser on the blink). The petrol pump would always respond to a clout, resuming its tick-tick noise; and the distributor to adjusting the points or renewing the condenser.
When I look under the bonnet of my Honda Accord, I hardly know what half of the ‘black boxes’ are for ! Engine Management Computor, sensors for all sorts of things, and wiring that is almost unbelievably complicated. Even the automatic gearbox doesn’t work all on its own, and is partly controlled by computer. I can’t diagnose a fault without it being plugged into a separate diagnostic computer at the local garage. GOOD ENGINEERING IS SIMPLE ENGINEERING ! My Scotts have no battery, no dynamo or alternator, no lights, and the only wires on them are the plug leads and the magneto kill switch wire. Lovely !
Last of my ‘modern era’ rants : A friend who runs the Legend Car series in France and Spain, and is a very talented engineer,can’t change the front brake pads on his VW Passat because it needs to be plugged into a ‘puter to release the caliper pistons !!!!!!!!!! Nurse, bring my medication !