Cylinder wall oiling pump wanted

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi, Has anybody got a cylinder wall oiling pump for sale please?–The type that goes on the bottom of a TT Replica petrol/oil tank. (Also 1928 short-stroke Flyer tank). I would gladly buy a complete tank that is rusted out, or accident damaged, just to salvage the pump from it. All leads gratefully pursued! I need one for my latest project, a total basket-case 1929 TT bike. These had the cylinder wall oiling pump on the side of a big (approx 1 gallon) main oil tank, sadly lacking from my basket case. Even just the internals and end fittings would be a big help.
Brian Marshall, Tel: 01949-851027. Email: yowl1@hotmail.com

[Anonymous]

Hi Brian,

If you get no joy then I’ve got a redundant one in the bottom of my TT Rep tank that is not connected. I can remove it then copy or do drawings if you want.

I’ll send you an email of someone who I know used to have one.

Cheers,
Rich

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Thanks Richard,
I’ll follow up that lead, and see what ensues, and also see if anyone else can help.
Regards, Brian

[Deleted User]

This question and the reply with the unused pump raises the question
Is the cylinder wall pump a good idea?

I too have on my rebuild a tank with a pump which doesn’t look as if it has ever been connected
how does it work?,is it manual? and is it a completely separate supply from the ‘normal’ pump supply or does that tee off from it in some way?

my thoughts are if its not a lot of good and its manual could it not be used as an occasional feed for the thrashing chains?

All based on ignorance I’m afraid 😳 and not a lot in technicalities either a good diagram would help

[Anonymous]

Timetc,

There is precious little info available about the pumps surprisingly. On TT Reps they are mounted in a tube that is soldered along the underside of the tank. The tube has a passageway internally that is fed from the main oil tank. It also has a tube within the main tube to act as a porting block with some holes drilled.

The design of the two tubes is especailly good at collecting all the gunk in the bottom of the oil tank and then clagging up.

The front end of the tube has a union that tees off, one to each cylinder wall oiling port in the block. The rear end of the tube has a cable union to allow cable operation from usually the left hand inverted lever. The left hand conventional lever operates the clutch.

Inside the pump is a spring loaded piston with a couple of ports in it. Pulling the cable compresses the spring and pumps oil into the cylinder wall pipes, on return the ports allow oil to refill the piston chamber. Sadly I did not take any pics when I rebuilt mine.

Is it a good idea? In theory yes, in practice I’ve never seen the point other than originality to connect it. If you are going up a long hill and want more oiling you can just close the air lever a little.

Cheers,
Rich

[Deleted User]

Thanks Richard
You have cleared another corner of the Scott fog of ignorance 😀
When I strip it I will remember and take pictures

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Richard’s explanation is not quite correct….The left-hand inverted lever, when pulled about half way back, should operate the half-compression valves, and when pulled back to the bars operates the magneto kill device. The cylinder -wall oiling pump should be operated by a “trigger” type small lever, usually on the L/H handlebar, the trigger being similar to a valve lifter lever on a four-stroke single. Many vintage Scotts now lack these quirky little niceties.
Brian

[Anonymous]

I think on bikes that used mags/magdynos without any cutout feature (MN2E for example), and with the siamese LH exhaust where the half compression linkage would not fit, the wall oiling would have been the LH inverted lever. As with many things Scott it did not stay the same for long, I should have mentioned that my comment applied to the 2 TT Reps I’ve got, of course others may vary!

Cheers,
Richard

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