Electric Kickstart!

[Peter Scott]

Hi Folks, rather than re-invent the wheel , I thought I might float this idea on the forum…
I have just rebuilt the kickstart on my 1934 600cc, and got to thinking about how similar the square end of the gearbox shaft is to the rattle gun / impact gun much beloved of tyre fitters . Now years ago it would have been impractical to drag a compressor and impact gun around, but these days a 24v cordless gun is available producing 400 nm of torque . Seems like it would be easy to concoct a drive socket that would engage with the gearbox shaft, having first removed lever, pawl and cog. The reverse direction, low speed high torque of these guns must be similar to the speed and torque of a kickstart ( except for a lot of us kick starting abilities are diminishing with rider age )
I have the added advantage of a sidecar with a good sized boot, so this becomes a very portable “electric leg”….IF IT WORKS !
If anyone has their kickstart in bits it would be great to give it a go ???
Over to you guys…
Peter Scott, Adelaide , South Australia

[Barrie]

Another idea is to use a dyna type starter/generator as used on some golf buggies 💡

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

The problem is that the torque produced by these rechargeable tools is not a smooth power. It is a high-speed impact ‘ratchetting’ power delivery, which will do shafts, gears, and engine components no good at all ! Great for loosening and tightening wheel nuts, freeing rusted nuts, etc., but not much else…
Brian

[Barrie]

@BRIAN MARSHALL wrote:

The problem is that the torque produced by these rechargeable tools is not a smooth power. It is a high-speed impact ‘ratchetting’ power delivery, which will do shafts, gears, and engine components no good at all ! Great for loosening and tightening wheel nuts, freeing rusted nuts, etc., but not much else…
Brian

I would totally agree with this statement

[Peter Scott]

Spot on Brian ! Have tried an impact wrench and quite correct, it’s not the right sort of action. Borrowed a gutsy cordless drill and that lacks the grunt ! Originally had in mind a car starter motor, and seems that a Toyota Camry unit is already used in a perfect set up designed for go kart starting . Have arranged to borrow one for a test ! They are an American made unit and the motor drives through a reduction gear and one way “spragg” clutch. They are also used for junior drag cars. They sell here in Aus for $395 so cheaper than a hernia operation ! 🙄

[TedParkin]

😀 😀 😀 My Electric start Scott uses a Kawasaki starter. Its a permanent arrangement using a cross shaft. Check it out on Youtube. “Big Kevs” Videos!! 😀 😀 😀 Regards TED https://youtu.be/vAe3YmEHSVg?list=UUyqnRmKFnTboq1g
More gen here …… Gasman3145’s Youtube channel

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Most of us will have one of those ‘Impact Driver’ tools, with several screwdriver bits and a chrome handle thing that you hit with a hammer to loosen recalcitrant rusty screws. Take one of the hexagon-section bits and put it in the chuck of a POWERFUL slow-speed drill that has reverse. Then put the half-inch square to hexagon adaptor socket onto the bit, and Bingo, you have a half-inch square female drive that will fit directly onto the end of the layshaft. No machining to do, nothing Scott mutilated, and the only problem is that you have to be near a power point !

I find this particularly useful when first starting an engine after a rebuild. Spark plugs out, HT leads earthed, petrol off, oil on, and both wells of the Pilgrim pump primed with some oil. Making sure that the drill is in reverse, pull the trigger, and the engine will turn over quickly enough to see that the pump is working properly. Then spark plugs back in, HT leads connected, petrol on, ignition turned on if it’s a coil ignition bike, tickle carb, air lever closed, throttle opened a bit, and pull the trigger again…..

Such a pity that you can’t take the drill with you !

Brian

[Peter Scott]

Update ! Tried a borrowed go kart starter this morning that is made by Coleman USA. It struggled on direct drive , but when used in conjunction with a reduction gear designed for un doing tight wheel nuts ( about 3 to 1 reduction ) it kicked over at slightly above what would be achieved with a healthy kick start action. The starter uses a Toyota Camry early model starter and has a small on board battery and handgrips . Sells for around $ 330 in Aus, but I will utilise a car battery in sidecar boot, so will make my own unit , that has good grips to cope with Torque reaction and Half inch square female drive.
As Brian says… No Scott bits changed or modified, so easy to just refit the kickstart bits when required.
Peter

[Peter Scott]

Update on the starter…A bit of trial and error along the way, but it works ! Used a starter motor from a Toyota diesel, donated from a friends spares pile. Very compact,incorporates a solenoid, and a one way clutch. Counter clockwise rotation. Mounted on a piece of 4 mm steel plate, 100mm X 400mm. Ground the bendix gear down to hexagon shape to accept a hex impact gun socket, for 1/2 inch square drive. Because the car set up has the bendix cog 12 tooth driving a ring gear of around 180 teeth, a reduction gearbox was needed. I had a “tire tork” gizmo for undoing wheel nut that is a 15 to 1 reduction with 1/2 inch drive connection, and a torque arm that conveniently rests on the footrest !
Nice fat copper cables connect this to a car 12v battery in the sidecar boot, handy ballast as I often ride without a passenger.
All the removed Scott bits are ready to go back on, and nothing is changed on the bike, so should the legs regain their strength it’s back to standard. Unlikely as my wife reckons she has seen better legs on a Seagull !

With this rig I will be riding and enjoying my Scott a lot more, and isn’t that what it’s all about !
Peter

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