HOME and how to join › Forum › Open Area › General Scott topics › "ENOTS" (Benton and Stone) Chain oiler drippers
This is just an exploratory question…. How many people out there need one or two of these little gizmos, used on Scotts from the late 1920’s all the way through to the last Birmingham Scotts ? I’m just wondering if the demand, if any, would justify getting some castings ordered, in order to get a small batch made.
I am aware that they were used by other motorcycle manufacturers, and not just for chain oiling either, as Rudge for instance, used them to regulate the supply of oil to the overhead-valve gear in the cylinder head. Is anyone reading this in the Rudge Club?
If you are, can these things be sourced from your club, as there is no point in getting new ones made if they can be bought “off the shelf” ?
Oooh! Dont know if I could just come right out with it in present company, but might have a little insight into matters Rudge! 😉
Cant visualise this device. As soon as Rudge started oiling the rocker gear, I am pretty sure it became enclosed (did I omit to say oil-tight? Yes I did!)
Do you have a little picture you could post?
Not at the moment, and my camera is on the blink, but I’m referring to the little dial-faced adjustable drippers, with a knurled edge to the dial, and a spring loaded locking plunger engaging with serrations on the back of the dial.
Hi, I have a couple of questions concerning these little dripper regulators. Is there supposed to be a ratchet plunger with a spring on the inside of the one in the photo? Is it a rod or a sleeve plunger? Is the dial needle supposed to be free? this one is stuck and just turns with the dial . How do you seal it to the oil tank with the seal landing so narrow?
Hi. There should be a spring-loaded solid brass plunger that engages with the serrations on the underside of the adjuster wheel. The pointer does not normally move independently of the dial, and just serves as a reference point when adjusting the setting. For instance you could move it by slackening off the centre screw to give you say, a vertical position when turned off, then when you turn it on you will find by experiment where to turn it to in order to achieve the desired flow rate, eg. ”3 o’clock”, “6 o’clock”, etc., a couple of drops per minute being about right for normal road use. With modern aerosol chain lube these things are really redundant, but it is nice to keep them for the sake of history and originality.
The oil sealing within the tap was always a bit crude, with a thick leather washer being about it ! To seal the joint into the tank there should be a hard red fibre washer, but use plumber’s PTFE thread sealing tape as well, for a 100% leak-free connection.
Hello all .
on the oiler that adorns a nail in the shed wall awaiting fitting the adjuster does not have a plunger working on the under side of the adjuster wheel , but has a piece of flat spring steel working on the outer rim of the wheel . it looks official there is not anything on the casting to suggest that a plunger could at sometime have been fitted. if this old twit was bright enough he would post a photograph Regards D F.
Yes, I’ve seen one or two like that, perhaps made like that by another maker in order to get round the Enots patents. The knurling on the edge of the adjuster wheel would then be straight-cut instead of the Enots cross-hatching type knurling. There again they might be a later production by Enots… I just don’t know. When I showed some enthusiasm for getting a batch of these things made, and asked for members to let me know if they were interested, only ONE person replied, so just one prototype was made, and it now sits quietly and sadly on a shelf !
I’m having trouble finding a small enough spring that will fit in the hole
Yes, a real hassle to find ! I took apart old ballpoint pens and all sorts of other things in my search for very small diameter springs, but did eventually find some suitable ones.
I found a spring ! its still inside the hollow pin 😆 Can’t see it but I can feel the spring action!
Its a 3/32″ hole
All I need to do is machine a plunger to fit.
Some modern grease nipples use small springs ,dismantle with a file. 1/4 BSP are I would say near to that size . Regards D F.
My eye was taken by the Enots “Best” Crankcase Pressure Relief Valve – the first image and description of it that I have seen. Originally brought to my attention by Tim Sharp as he used a couple in his version of Loftylube.
Obviously ( I think! ) designed to relieve crankcase pressure in a four-stroke engine without also blowing out oil, its use in a two-stroke scavenging system would require it to blow out excess oil with a minimal loss of pressure – a very different application. The valve is positioned quite differently in the two engine types – high up the crankcase for a four-stroke and right at the bottom for a two-stroke.
I have tried similar spring loaded disc valves in my long search for a viable Loftylube system. Like almost any non-return valve design, they do work well with a bit of throttle opening. Problems arise on a closed throttle when crankcase pressure fluctuations and gas-flow are very small indeed. In such a worst-case scenario any valve can stick closed – the so-called “cracking pressure” being too high. The engine can then start accumulating oil which later gets carried into the combustion chamber in a big ‘swoosh’ creating the well known smoke screen.
The Enots disc valve has a large surface area of contact when closed and with the presence of oil may be stuck by surface tension. The modern elastomeric duckbill valve is designed to be “normally open” so has virtually zero cracking pressure. It also closes very rapidly with almost nil suck-back when the pressure reverses. This may make it the design of choice for two-stroke scavenging and I am experimenting with items designed and made by the Dutch MiniValve company. So far they seem to be ideal, but longer term testing is required.
“ENOTS” = “STONE” backwards 😆
AND… Their ‘Best’ trade name is a contraction of BEnton and STone !