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All,
I am looking for some fittings to make up a new oil supply line for my 1959 Brum. What I think I need are:
1) a 1/8″ (I think) crossover to 1/4″ BSP (definite) to take a 1/4″ (6mm) copper pipe
2) The ring type fitting to the Pilgrim pump: 1/2″ (13mm) ID / 18mm OD that can be soldered to 6mm copper pipe
Item 1 is for the outlet of the tenk. The current outlet is actually a tap that screws into the tank (the small end) and has a 1/4″ BSP at the other end that takes a nipple on the end of the pipe. The problem is that the tap is a very tight fit and makes putting the oil tank back on really problematic – there is not enough space to rotate the tap when the tank is in place. However, I saw a very neat alternative at Stanford that I would like to use. With a simple crossover to 1/4″ BSP that can take 6mm pipe I can fit in a 6mm copper pipe using a conventional water pipe connection available from a plumber. The advantage is that this will be much smaller in overall diameter than the valve and can be tightened up with the tank in place and the pipe can run vertically. This is then simply the same arrangement as on the outlet of my current valve.
I then plan to put a 6mm water valve in a clear horizontal run using a convention tap from my local plumber.
The next problem is then getting a fitting for the oil pump and mating the 6mm pipe to it. If push comes to shove, I can cut my present line to fit the pump end into the valve, but I would prefer not to. Hence I want to try and build a completly new supply line.
Any advice on where I can buy these two fittings. Also, if anyone knows a source of chromed pipe (rather than copper), I would prefer that as it would then match the supply lines to the engine.
Colin
A correction – the pipe is 8mm (5/16″) not 6mm.
Colin
Are the 1/4′ BSP female threads in the Pilgrim pump straight or tapered? I was wondering because the fittings I have get tight real quick like the female threads are tapered. Anybody find a good supplier for original appearing lines and fittings ?
Hello Colin
When you get a 1/8 to 1/4 adaptor it would be prudent to check the id bore some are very small not good on a cold day .As for the banjo union on the pill grim they can be made in two parts and silver soldered . Regards D F .
Hi,
Chromed pipe is used by plumbers for the last couple of feet nearest a gas fire, and you can also get smallbore stainless tubing. Have a look on eBay.
Brian
Is it possible to bend stainless pipe without it collapsing ?
Yes, if you have got a little hand-held tube bender.
Brian
Guys, my original post is coming up to 7 years ago so I can say what I did (which is very non-original).
i) I got a 1/8 x 1/4 crossover from a local plumbers’ merchant and it had a full bore i.d. This made refitting the oil tank/oil supply line really easy.
ii) I got 8mm cupro-nickle pipe and banjo from a local hydraulic hose supplier for cars along with some fancy washers/oil seals that work well.
iii) I put an on/off valve in a horizontal run, also from the plumbers’ merchant
iv) I actually bent the pipe by hand, however, I filled it with sand to prevent it buckling (and cleaned it out real well afterwards!!!)
As regards, the thread of the Pilgrim pump, I do not know what thread it actually is as I used the original male ‘bolt’ which has a cut-out for the oil flow. However, from memory, this had a straight thread so the issue with rapid tightening of a 1/4″ BSP thread suggests that the male thread is wrong.
Once you get up to about 1/4″ BSP there are taper-thread versions as well as the parallel threads, and the fittings are not compatible with one another.
Brian
Had to machine .083″ off the end of the banjo bolts that I think are original to use the Dowty seals that I bought. The bolts would bottom out in the pump before things got tight. I’m using what I believe are the stock chrome banjos and lines. Everything is sealing up nice now.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181312178610
I doubt if the dowty seals will give any probs the earth movers that I worked on had 3700 lbs pressure and used them , Just a tad of overkill on a Scott. Good that you sused the banjo bolt length have found them with extra washers in the past nice job .Regards D F .
Be very,very careful that the banjo union retaining bolt does not go too far into the body of the pump or it will block off one of the oilways ! Have a close look into the threaded hole, and you should be able to see the oilway that I am going on about. Carefully measure how much thread you have got to go into the body of the pump when the banjo union and the two red fibre washers are in place, and compare that with the position of the oilway in the hole. You will find that no more than about a quarter of an inch of thread is needed.
Brian
AND, neither my 1950 Flyer, nor my 1972 Brum Flyer, had an oil tap betwixt tank and Pilgrim pump, and that never gave any trouble. The big problem with taps is remembering to turn them on…..
Brian
BTW heres a pump for sale , with different fittings, they might be a better design .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/370993069231?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
That may well be only a single outlet pump, especially as the seller is suggesting it is suitable for Raleigh and Levis. It is much older type than those fitted to a Brum Scott, having the small diameter adjuster knobs with locknuts instead of the later type with larger knobs, spring loaded, and with the little brass plungers acting on the underside of the knobs, as previously discussed. It is probably as old as 1929 to about mid-1930’s. If you are still interested in it you should get the seller to confirm that it is a double outlet type. I can see that it has a Scott crankcase door, but don’t rely on that to identify the type.
Brian