I was asked what torque to tighten the head bolts to, as an owner had asked others who had told him “Tight Enough” This is ok if you have spent your life doing up small fastenings, but no use to a person who has little to relate to.
It set me thinking about the damaged, leaking, warped heads we get.
I decided to set down all the steps I personally would take if I wanted to do this job correctly.
Typically it is rather more lengthy and painstaking than you might expect and may vary from what other owners will prefer.
If I am going to do a job, I try to consider all aspects.
I remember one of Gordon Jennings sayings–
There is only one secret to success–
Know what you are doing and then do it thoroughly!
So here is a link to my take on this subject now posted on the Moss Engineering website
Richard has changed some programming aspects of our site so it easier to navigate, but I need to spend some time to learn it, as currently I need him to help me put things on,– perhaps the years are catching up?
Another “Thank You” due here I think, a very nicely considered item.
Rust is mentioned several times, (a personally sensitive subject presently, corrosion having turned my central heating boiler’s pump into an ex-pump!).
Many moons ago I used to sail and found Wool Fat (Anhydrous Lanolin) to be one of the few things that could be relied upon to resist the depredations of salt water. Later I found good use for the stuff on anything that was exposed and could corrode, under various cars to protect things like brake pipes and even when screwing in the humble wood screw.
What has this to do with the Scott?
Wool Fat it is devilishly tenacious stuff, even when heated it will leave an effective “skin”. It is well worth smearing on anything that may rust and threads that might need to be undone some time in the future.
Might it not then be an idea to smear some on any studs that are going to come into contact with water?
Ask yourself this: – When did you last see a rusty sheep?!!!
Wool Fat (Anhydrous Lanolin) can be obtained from your local chemist, in 500g tubs it’s not cheap but it’ll last for years.
Maybe our Australian members in an idle moment might care to boil down a couple of sheepskins for us?
You are quite correct, lanolin is an excellent preservative. I have used it in solution in different strengths. Back in the dark ages Shell used to make a product called ENSIS and this became a generic term for a liquid about the consistency of diesel oil. You dipped your steel or iron piece in this, let it drain and it left a thin waxy film on the piece.
They then did a product ENSIS HD which was a dark brown liquid which left a thicker harder film. There are many variants but be assured that this type of product is commonly available. As our business is modest, I do not buy from the major oil companies now and use Millers Oils who are happy to sell smaller quantities over the counter. We should give a christening present of a 5 litre tin of such solution to infant boy children. By the time they are 60, they will start to appreciate the gift. Rust is indeed a problem and the first priority in my workshops and store sheds is to have dehumidifiers, even more important than heating. So picture the scene, the dehumidifier, and ex yacht red diesel heater on med / low setting and Roger in that most wonderful garment, the Dickies Redhawk padded (Insulated) overall (Boiler suit) worn straight over underwear! You can work down to almost freezing point without feeling cold if necessary.
These have kept me warm and cheerful for years and saved money on clothes.
Do I really have to ramble on like this? I suppose it is difficult to change your nature! Kind Regards to all Roger
P.S. I am not on commission for product placement advertising!
“the Dickies Redhawk padded (Insulated) overall (Boiler suit) worn straight over underwear!”???
Far! Far! Far! too much information!!!
But as long as you don’t start wearing ’em over the boiler suit whatever floats ‘yer boat I guess, but, ye gods, talk about the stuff of nightmares!!!