Hi, I’ve slight rust pitting on parts of the outside my 29 Flyer Frame, although it doesn’t look serious , is there a way of testing/examining the frame, as it maybe more serious inside the tubes.
Is it then best to fill/stopper then 2k /cellulose or enamel, or wiil stove enamel or powder coating to cover the pitting
Powder coating will not really cover pitting, and you cannot fill with a non-metallic substance and then powder coat. There are techniques used by the non-destructive testing folk, mainly in the aviation industry, to check for internal corrosion, but it is very expensive to have done. My cousin was recently obliged to have it done on the wing struts of his 1941 Taylorcraft light aircraft, following a couple of fatal crashes in the USA where the struts failed due to hidden internal rusting caused by water ingress.
In the vintage motorcycle world the only items that would really bother me personally are Druid, and some other makes, of front forks, as they were made from thin gauge tubing, and nasty accidents have occurred when they have suddenly failed. You really need to get expert advice if the external pitting is serious. NEVER, EVER, draw-file the tubes to remove the pitting !!
If you are happy with the integrity of your frame, after gentle sand blasting to reveal all the pitting, I would then give it a couple of coats of red oxide primer, then fill visible imperfections with a car body type epoxy filler, rub down to a smooth finish, prime again, because the rubbing-down inevitably exposes areas of bare metal, and then paint with a finish that is compatible with your primer. Do check with your paint supplier that the paint is petrol-with-ethanol resistant.
The various finishes available have their pros and cons, and you should consider the use the bike is going to get, as some finishes are nice and shiny but rather brittle and prone to chipping. Cellulose on the other hand is rather soft, but it is very easy to touch up if chipped, and can be ‘cut back’ with a rubbing compound to restore its shine and remove surface scratches.
Hope this helps!
I bought an EW Douglas that had been in a Museum that had been powder coated over pitting (after treatment) to start with I accepted it with mixed grace but you know its apperance grew on me so when I got my Scott frame again with slight pitting I though long and hard and in the end had it cleaned with a ‘soft’ mix blast examined it closely then had it powder coated I think it looks fine, hells teeth its 85 years old the last thing it needs is plastic surgery it should wear its badges of what its been through with pride and with the assurance that it will stand a lot of knocks without further damage.
Speaking as someone who prefers to ride than gather pots, as long as the frame is shiny black, imperfections don’t tend to show once everything has been hung on it. Just a personal opinion. 🙂
You can see them alright
the question is are battle scars imperfections
I like em.
Quite so. Otherwise we would all be off having facelifts! 😀
Fair comments, but I do want it to look reasonable , and I know its never going to win any beauty competitions as its intended to be ridden.
My 18 year old son now has his eye on it, so I’ll not make it look too nice and I’ll be able to hang onto it for a couple more years and the Scott club will have to wait until then to get new blood. So it looks like powder coating is the way to go.
I would. I had my girder forks rebushed and was dissapointed when they came back to find that they had been powder coated, pitting and all. When I sent them off they had been filled and enamelled to (I think) near perfection by me. Once they were fitted and the bike complete the imperfections really do not show as long as you don’t get down on your hands and knees! The powder coating does go someway to filling most smaller pitting.
You could of course get your frame powder-coated, and then if not happy with the results, where pitting is still visible, rub down with fine wet-and-dry paper to give a ‘key’ and then fill the pitting and respray the affected tubes. As I said in the last paragraph of my previous posting, it all depends on what usage the bike is going to get…. The other thing to consider is whether or not you want to enhance the value of the bike, and for the sake of a few extra hours of work, at very low cost, I personally prefer to get the finish to something like it would have looked like when new, ie. free from pitting.
An Interesting post and replies Guys 😀 😀 For what its worth here are my thoughts. 80yr old + frames and forks are an unknown quantity! With the best will in the world it is IMPOSSIBLE short of NDT (None destructive testing) to be sure of what you have. If, as the owner and USER you are happy with what you do then that’s fine. 😀 😀 😀 However! If at some time the bike is passed on to a different owner then the “Fit and proper” use of such sold goods comes under a very different set of criteria. 😕 😕 I am thinking here of the relatives of the buyer (USA) who may not appreciate what has been done!!!!! An interesting conundrum eh????? It could be QUITE informative if a lawyer amongst us were to comment regarding this. Regards Ted 😕 😕
As ever…..CAVEAT EMPTOR. “Buyer beware”, and don’t sell anything to America that is safety critical !