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Hi All
I am a new owner(just last week) i have a problem with the handlebars at present, I know that hey are aftermarket as they seem very straight, apart from that they look OK, but i cannot tighten them up so they drop if you apply pressure from above, they then hit the fuel tank causing damage, any suggestions please.
I would also like suggestions on spark plug type and gap, I expect my subjects have been covered before so apologies if they have, I am yet to navigate the site properly.
If any one has any pointers to information please shout.
Thanks
Dave
What size are the bars . I suspect 7/8″ diam. Clamps might be for 1″. You can get bars that are 1″ at the stem or clamp area and 7/8″ elsewhere. I have a bike with split tubes out of 16swg tube to make up the slack. Phil
Hi Dave
If the difference between “to clamp or not to clamp“ is small, I usually cut a strip from an aluminium beer/soda can and roll it to a ring. This ring can be placed between the clamps and bar (avoid overlapping the ring).
SOFT aluminium is good to use for shims in some other applications too, as the ally surfaces adjust to the surfaces it squeezed between, and grips very well.
Best regards
Leif
Hi Leif I like the beer can suggestion thats a top idea
Hi
I really like to recycle things rather than throwing them away. Here’s my route holder!
Best regards
Leif
Love it !
Hi Spark Plugs, For 14mm NGK B5ES Avoid any with an ‘R’ as they are resistor and keep the gap small, 15” – 20” Scott Technicalities is a good resource.
Hi Dave
If your bars are supposed to be 7/8″ it may have some 22 mm ones fitted. This sometimes causes things to be not tight, and the strip of beer can trick often works well. The strips under a twistgip need to well placed to not interfere with the twist bit.
I know Moto Guzzi and BMW have used 22 mm bars from the 1970’s at least, and I would guess at least some of the other European manufacturers did as well. The Japanese, surprisingly, used 7/8″ well into the 1990’s and may still do.
If your bike has 14 mm plugs, I have had good success with NGK B6EV. I would think any equivalent in that heat range would be ok. I have a 1949 600 Flying Squirrel. Brisk spark plugs from Czechoslovakia seem to be getting good reviews lately from people with oil burning bikes.
Geoff
Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions I will try some of them out this weekend, I am itching to get things going and take it for a ride!!
I have always run NGK 6 on my 1938. Use short reach. If you fit long reach you need to tun up a spacer to lift the electrode clear of the piston! Remember you only need 18 thou. gap maximum for a magneto engine (probably teaching you to suck eggs, sorry)