Headstock Bearings

[Orgasmatron]

I notice that the outer shells (the bits that fit into the frame head) of the headstock bearings of my 1939 TT Rep are pitted (the bearings are the roller type).
Does anyone know where I can get replacements (whole bearings or just the shells)?
Also, would I be correct in assuming that the shells are simply tapped out for replacement?

[rainbowrider]

I was up against the same thing a couple of years ago. I bought a pair of adapter cups to fit available ball race bearings from another member which I still have, unused. Nothing wrong with them but I decided to try taper rollers again rather than convert to ball races. In the end mine was fixed using new taper rollers in a fairly common size close to the originals, with a simple sleeve turned up on a friends lathe to adapt them. The only problem is I can’t remember whether the adapter sleeves were for the inside or outside races!
The races should be easily drifted out of the frame-I can’t remember any difficulty there-but if there is no room to get the drift on the races, and they are going to be scrapped anyway, I would consider welding a disc or bolt or other lump of scrap metal inside the race and drifting that out.
I got my taper roller replacements from Simply Bearings. They have an easy to use website and a good range and service, in my experience.
Hope that helps, Steve.

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Without knowing the OD of your fork stem I can’t be sure about availability, so let us know what it is, typically 1-1/16″ or 1-1/8″, but I got some genuine Timken ones last year from “Rollerball Bearings” in Nottingham last year. They were not off-the-shelf stock, so had to be ordered, but arrived the following day. Vintage Bearings in Burton-on-Trent can also help, but tend to be more expensive than Rollerball Bearings. Incidentally, the TT Rep was last made in 1934, so I’m a bit puzzled by your 1939 dating ! The taper roller type headstock was also discontinued at about the same time, when cups and balls type bearings were standardised. The OD of the forkstem varied according to the make of fork that is fitted, ie. Webb, Brampton, or Scott.
Brian

[Orgasmatron]

Many thanks for the replies both Brian and Steve.
The bearings are caged Timken F1760XL with an internal diameter of 1-1/32″
The outer diameter of the outer shell (the ring that the taper bearing runs on that is fixed into the frame head) measures 2-3/32″
Regards.
Chris.

[Orgasmatron]

Oh, the bike is a 1930 model (not 1939 – a slip of the finger).
Regards.
Chris.

[Orgasmatron]

Changed my mind about the measured sizes.
The internal diameter is actually 1″ (there is a taper on the first bit of the inner cone and I measured incorrectly).
The depth is 3/4″.
The outer cup diameter is 2-3/32″
Chris.

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

It was 1″ ID ones that I bought last year from Rollerball Bearings, so hopefully you should be able to get some.
Brian

[Dripfeed]

A tip for removing the outer bearing rings is to run a weld all the way around the centre of roller track this shrinks the ring and bobs yer whatsit. you need a steady hand on the Mig . this works on bearings large or small i haveremoved 12″ rings on earth movers wheel bearings from motor bikes etc. Regards D F .

[Dripfeed]

P S need i say only on scrap bearings.D F .

[Orgasmatron]

Rollerball Bearings in Nottingham can get the original Timken F1760XL caged taper roller bearings for £107 each. So, 13 roller bearings in each, which makes it only £8.23 a roller!!!!!
Mind you, can’t complain too much, they will send them free of charge.

[Orgasmatron]

No, it wasn’t Rollerball Bearings Nottingham it was Quality Bearings Online (contact : Simon – email : sales@qualitybearingsonline.com) ; Simon went to great lengths to get me the correct Timken F1760XL bearings (£107 plus VAT each). However, as my cones and bearings were still in good nick, he found me some 1730 cups at £30 plus VAT each, which I will now fit at considerable saving.
I dont know if it is normal for a 1930 TT Rep, but the bearings were Timken F1760XL with 1730 cups. If you are looking for replacement units, I recommend that you drift out the cups to make sure of the number stamped on the edge.
It transpired that simply heating the frame head with a hair dryer (wife was out – she will never know!) was sufficient to (lightly) tap out the cups using a screwdriver and hammer.
Thanks everyone for your advise.

[Author]

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