HOME and how to join › Forum › Open Area › General Scott topics › Hello from New Scott owner in Nottingham
My old 1950 Flying Squirrel, that I bought in 1980, my first Scott, had the subject brake, and after my previous bike, a Velocette Venom Clubman, it seemed a wooden and very indifferent brake. It remained so after a brake reline, and the front brake on my next Scott, a 1929 TT Replica, was much better ! Definitely a distinctly backwards development… It had the ‘rising pulley’ gizmo mounted on top of the front mudguard, which I thought was a very ‘odd’ bit of engineering, but I stayed with it for the sake of retaining originality.
Brian
Dowty Oleomatic forks
They are an “upside-down” design with the outer legs clamped in the yokes, and with smaller diameter sliders – very modern!
The sliders carry a piston at the top with a seal working on the inner surface of the outer legs. With the legs filled to the correct level there is a short column of oil above the piston and a small volume of air above that.
I agree with Keith about the appeal of using an air suspended fork, with its ideal progressive action, from 60 plus years ago – provided you can make it work as designed. I have been down a long road in an effort to reach this desirable conclusion, so far without success. When acquired, my ’49 FS – off the road for 30 plus years – would not hold air at all. We polished the sealing surface and fitted a new set of seals ( cost £65 ) with no improvement. I concluded it would have to be a spring conversion. I bought one from Gerry Howard which I believe was based on the Brum design. It worked after a fashion but bottomed out on potholes far too readily and the plain spring was not progressive. Very disappointing. The damping method was unchanged from the rather primitive Dowty original.
Later I discovered that the top slider bearing on one side was wearing unevenly and this could only be due to a bent outer leg. I had this sorted out by Abbarepair and optimistically returned to the air system. At first my static test looked good but it only flattered to deceive. Oil running down the legs again.
I consulted John Bould of Lansdowne Engineering, who makes hydraulic dampers of a superior design for classic Nortons etc, for help. He designed and built a modified spring suspension, firmer and with a degree of progressive action, and put in his adjustable dampers. A bit OTT for a Scott I have to agree!
After an adjustment to the spring rate, initially too firm, it now works far better and saw its first outing at Abbotsholme this year. At one point we hit a nasty little bump or pothole that I failed to spot on an undulating but rather nice straight stretch, when doing about 60mph. The bike took off and bounced me out of the saddle, causing a bad fright, but it came down again safely in a straight line. Point is, even though it was a severe test the forks did not bottom.
I would still like to make the air suspension work, just for the satisfaction, especially with the modern damping, but I’ve had enough hard work for the time being. The next step would have to be a honing job on the inside sealing surface of the outers ( I understand Eddie has such a hone ) and maybe investigate a modern garter seal design to substitute for the simple Dowty cup.
A Kawasaki air valve will replace the old kilner valve, Kawasaki part No.16126/1052. You will need a washer as the thread is slightly longer. I have owned my 1949 Scott since 1982 and rarely have to inflate the forks,I certainly have’nt put any air in for at least 2yrs. They once went down when I was on a run, I feared the worst, stopped and pumped them up and have not had a problem since? Best wishes Ted.
Its good to hear they can hold air OK. I’m hoping that I don’t encounter the hassle that Mike did!
Thanks,
Keith
It’s quite possible you won’t Keith. My bike was owned in the 50s and 60s by one of the Club’s founder members – Lofty Avis – who was a prodigious rider. The bike had 125,000 miles on it and, as you might imagine, everything that he hadn’t replaced at least once was very well worn. Interestingly, although the bronze fork bushes were knackered, there was very lttle wear on the sliders – but perhaps he had them re-chromed. Good luck with yours!
Going back to the subject of the 1948/49/50 twin front brakes…. I have some shoes that I will show to Keith at our Eastern Section meeting on Sunday morning (11/11 12). At first inspection they look OK, but closer examination reveals that they are TWISTED !! I wonder how many others are. The cause of the problem is not obvious as they are fairly robust, and it may even be that the pivot hole was drilled through on the skew originally.
A few weeks ago I was talking to Geoff Hearn at Lowdham, and he chose this brake for his racer back in the 1970’s, (he still has the bike), and he has always been happy with the brake on the track and on the road, so they can be very good…
Brian
Would be interesting to enquire from Geoff Hearn what modifications were made, if any, to the activating mechanism, which might have enhanced the leverage?
I will ask him. From memory, it looks externally standard, but has the Brum type twin-pull lever.
Brian
I notice both of us who like the brake are named Geoff.
Obvious solution is to change your name to Geoff. Easier than mucking about with the brake 🙂
Geoff