HELP! Birmingham Scott won’t start ??

[Russell]

@Adriangv wrote:

Have you tried using a new set of plugs? Plugs that spark well in the open air sometimes fail under compression so it is worth fitting a new pair.
Adrian

Yes tried a new set of plugs, and checked they are sparking under compression with a timing light.

[Russell]

@Stan Thomas wrote:

Hi Russell,
I meant what area do you live – if your not to far (Orkney – Cornwall – Gobi Desert etc). I’d come over and either get you up and running or at least identify the problem.

Hi we’re in West Yorkshire, Norristhorpe, in between Dewsbury and Huddersfield

[Russell]

@BRIAN MARSHALL wrote:

Just another thought… Stale old petrol from before the rebuild ?
Brian

That’s very possible as I can’t remember the last time it was filled, is there anyway of checking we are getting fuel through other than seeing if the plugs are “wet” and smell of petrol?

[Russell]

@dave bushell wrote:

The distributor housing is, as you say, positively located, however, if you loosen the distributor clamp and remove a small screw that prevents the distributor being removed,the distributor itself can be withdrawn from the distributor housing and the helical gear re-engaged in a different position thereby altering the timing.
Dave

Hi Dave, we haven’t dismantled the distributer-pump unit, so that should be as it was before when it ran fine, so should be “correct” – Cheers Russell

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Before you do anything else, drain off the old petrol, including the float chamber, and refill with fresh petrol, preferably ethanol-free, like BP ‘Ultimate’. Modern so-called petrol has a ‘shelf-life’ of about six weeks !!
Brian

[Deleted User]

Good point. My old side valve mower (which ought to be very tolerant of fuel quality) needs fresh juice before it will even cough. Shame you didn’t try it before making adjustments though.. 🙁

[Russell]

@BRIAN MARSHALL wrote:

Before you do anything else, drain off the old petrol, including the float chamber, and refill with fresh petrol, preferably ethanol-free, like BP ‘Ultimate’. Modern so-called petrol has a ‘shelf-life’ of about six weeks !!
Brian

Okay, replaced the petrol with new Shell V-Power, went to start it and, no spark 😥 , which leads me on to more questions…

1) Am I correct in saying that the Birmingham Scott needs a healthy battery to create a spark?
2) Would an “old” battery contribute towards our starting problems?
3) Should we try a new battery?

Cheers Russell

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Any coil ignition vehicle needs a decent battery, putting out the nominal voltage that the coil needs, six volts in your case, unless the bike has been changed to twelve volts. It may well have become discharged after all your starting efforts and no running to charge it up. Get yourself a six volt charger and put the battery on charge for a few hours, then check its state with a voltmeter. If it is not showing six volts it will need renewing. Don’t forget to turn the ignition on before you next try to start it !

[Russell]

It was only 4.9V after charging, so I’ll source a replacement, is there a recommended modern equivalent?

[Deleted User]

Hi Russell,

I’m afraid I’m not in your area, and not going in that direction soon – however, as a thought, email me your ‘phone number and I’ll talk you through a few things if that will help. my email is stan@thomas16.orangehome.co.uk

Before you fit the new battery, remove the plugs (I suggest a new pair) and the drain plugs from under the crankcase and push the bike some distance in bottom gear to blow out all the rich (?) mixture, so you can start a-fresh.

Put the drain plugs back and kick the bike over slowly with the throttle wide open but the petrol/ignition off , and there should be distinct “popping noises” signifying that the crankcase compression is transfering to the combustion chambers. Then put one plug in and test for compression, remove the plug and do likewise for the other cylinder (all with petrol off and throttle wide open).

If all is well, now fit the battery and plugs and your ready to try again.

An old tip when starting from cold is to put your hand completely over the carb inlet and give the bike four or five kicks – (on the kickstart not the bike in general). However, if it does not start, don’t just keep flooding the engine on the tickler, ring me!

[Russell]

Thanks Stan, I’ll give it a try and let you know how I get on – Russell

[Deleted User]

I used a ‘ES13-6 Westco Motorcycle Battery 6V 13 Ah’
From Tayna Batteries
http://www.tayna.co.uk
It is an Advanced Glass Mat (AGM) battery it fits well though the edges are not rounded
it cost £36-57

[Russell]

Thanks for that I like the idea of a sealed battery, has anyone any experience of using one of these…

https://www.scottparts.co.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=178&virtuemart_category_id=39

Does this fit a Brum Scott?

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Richard Blackburn is calling it a ‘battery box’ on his website, but it is actually a ‘dummy’ replica of the old hard rubber-cased 6v batteries that were produced by Exide and by Lucas. As the ‘dummy’ is hollow you can put into it any battery or batteries that will fit inside, and it should fit on your Brum exactly like the original battery.
Brian

[chris wastell]

I don’t know very much about batteries but I’ve read that older charging systems (just from the ’80s) don’t work well with the gel type and the batteries don’t last long. Maybe a traditional lead acid would be better but definitely a good sized one. We spend days trying to get my 1949 Scott to go until I fitted a beefier battery and hey presto!

[Author]

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