HOME and how to join › Forum › Open Area › General Scott topics › How to dismantle two-speeder forks ?
Before i attempt this operation for the first time (and end up breaking something) can anybody tell me how to remove and dismantle the front forks please ? It might not be obvious from the picture below but the brake anchor point is on the wrong side so my aim is to reverse the lower slider arrangement.
Any help appreciated,
Just out of interest, my 1925 two speeder standard model also has the brake anchor point on the left. Some Scott documentation also shows it being on the left as well.
A just in time posting Paul as I am about to undertake the same job in the next few weeks and also for the first time!
Might be a nice subject for my website too…
Dismantling the forks is described in the Book of the Scott. However first you must remove the handlebars. These are fixed like a bicycle with an expander bolt. Unscrew the retaining bolt in the centre of the bars about 5 turns and tap it down to release the expanding taper. It should then be possible to remove the handlebars by twisting and pulling them upwards.
The top tension spring cap is a bit tricky to remove as the spring is quite strong and it does need a strong piece of wire to pull it out far enough to un-hook the tension spring.
I need to change the head races on my 1930 2 speeder which has a different arrangement for mounting the handlebars. I shall take some photos and make a drawing of this arrangement when the time comes and put it in Yowl.
I will explain more at the Midlands SOC meeting on Monday.
A small point. Some of he balls of the top bearing will be quite keen to roll down inside the top frame tube, if they get a chance. It happened to me.
Graham 1929 2-speed ‘Sports’.
Thanks for replies so far:
There’s no sign of a central bolt on the handlebars to pull against an expanding taper (as per a bicycle type handlebar stem). I think my handlebars are held in place by the split clamp arrangement forming part of the top section of the forks (ie. the bit above the upper steering head bearings). I also think my handlebars are partly seized in the stem (the forks have not been dismantled for at least 50 years) – so i’ve now drenched the assembly in wd40 and will try again in a day or two !
According to my Book of the Scott, the top section of the forks should be removed complete with handlebars after removing the tension spring cap from the spring housing – any tips on how to do this easily (the Scott text says use a bent spoke to relive the spring tension and allow removal of the cap ) ?
Anyway it’s nice to have a puzzle to solve……..
Since you have removed the front mudguard, it is worth considering first removing the lower spring retaining cap, rather than the top one.
It is very easy to chip the paint around the cap and this will show less at the bottom. Also, the lower legs give something to attach one end of the ‘coathanger’ to….
Very good tip… but too late for me. I removed the top cap yesterday and ended up not chipping the paint but the nickel on the cap :o(
After asking for help I thought it would be useful to round this forum topic off with a very brief description of the removal procedure (and thanks to the SOC Midland section member who brought some dismantled forks to the Monday meeting to illustrate the process):
The front top ‘suspension’ housing contains two springs – an outer square section one in compression and an inner round section spring in tension (when assembled). The inner spring is hooked in place by a cap at either end (see the previous posts) one of which needs to be prised up an removed. Compressing the fork assembly by pushing down on the handlebars or use of an industrial size valve spring compressor type tool makes the job slightly easier. with one of these caps removed the assembly is free to come apart.
The top fork stem lug is held in place by a locking ring nut and a bolted split clamp. On my bike the handle bars lifted when these were loosened (but not until they had been soaked in penetrating oil for about a week).
To remove the front sliding member the pair of lower fork bush covers need to be unscrewed and removed (both are right hand thread). There are two flats on the base of the covers for this purpose. Also the pair of split clamps need to be loosened.
So that’s the theory – looks as though it will be twice as difficult to reassemble. However, one of the Midland Section members has a special tool which can compress the outer and tension the inner springs simultaneoulsy to make the reassembly a lot easier – but, we’ll have to wait until he brings it along to the December meeting to see what this contraption looks like !