Is there anybody out there ?!

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi all, NOTHING on the website since Dec 26th, and there was me expecting a nice flurry of interesting posts over the holiday period, when most people are at home with nothing much to do except think about their Scotts…. That was my theory anyway, but sadly NOWT ! A Happy New Year to everyone.
Brian

[Tman]

Same to you. I see the VMCC is going with an online forum shortly; I hope it fares better than this one… 🙁

[Bob Mather]

HI Brian,
No post from me as we had a big overnight storm, strong winds and 4 1/4 inches of rain. Lots of big trees blew down here in the hills, many fell on to power lines ripping out the wires and knocking down the poles. We had no power for three days and as we have no mains water just rainwater tanks with electric pumps so no running water. No computer, the land line telephones stopped working, the mobile phones faded away with flat backup batteries. Real third world stuff.
Regards,
Bob Mather.

[jonathanjoy]

Well maybe you can help me with this, Brian. I’ve noticed a slight leak in the seal of the cylinder barrel and the aluminium blind head dome on my 29 Flyer. Its water , I’m not particularly alarmed, but there is quite significant amounts of salt deposits , I assume from the aluminium corroding.
Does anyone else’s Scott have this ? we have very hard water in our area , should I use distilled or glycol instead ? or is it just due to impurities in the aluminium ? Is the same happening internally or does it only happened when exposed to air ?

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi Jonathan, Is the leak around the outer edges of the water-dome or from around the spark-plug ferrules ? In any event you will have to remove the dome to renew the gaskets and seals. Normally the white efflorescence is glycol from antifreeze, but I suppose it could be an aluminium salt if you have a lot of corrosion occurring. Never put hard water in your engine. Use rainwater, distilled water, or deionised water. I have a dehumidifier in my workshop, so always have a good supply of the latter. Also always use a suitable, ethanol-free antifreeze at about a 30% strength in the system. Remember that with at least three different metals in wet contact in your cooling system, cast iron, aluminium, brass, and also nickel if you have a ‘modern’ replacement radiator, you will get electrolytic corrosion happening unless the coolant mixture is correct, and aluminium is the first metal to suffer, hence the ‘sacrificial anodes’ fastened to the hulls of steel ships and boats.

Brian

[jonathanjoy]

Yep its around the outer edges of the water dome. We have very hard water on the Isle of Wight, so I’ll drain it and replace with distilled. I also own a boat , which to my cost, I have learnt about. By failing to renew a zinc anode , electrolysis destroyed my first engine, you live and learn !!

HAPPY NEW YEAR

[Dripfeed]

Happys to you all may your Scotts often become two stroke twins, good health and contentment to you all . for 2017 and beyond. Regards D F .

[Bob Mather]

Hi Jonathon,
Re water for your radiator, just put 2 or 3 clean plastic buckets out in the rain and store the water in a clean container. I use the water from my rain gauge (a necessary device in dry South Australia if trying to grow things).
Regarding the cork gaskets under the water dome, there are different thicknesses available. Mine were weeping which can be caused by too much coolant in the water as it is very searching. When I changed mine I smeared both sides and the edges of the gaskets with silicon sealant and had no trouble since.
Regards,
Bob Mather.

[gammakeith]

Happy New Year to all. Alas, have spent zero time on my Scott over the festive period 😳 In fact, the only motorcycle related activity has been replacing the headstock bearings on the youngsters moped….. Still only 1 year and 3 months till I retire (not that I am counting, of course) 😀

Keith

[Author]

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