Can any one tell me what sort of job it is to fit modern seals to the main bearings or is it a job only someone like Rodger Moss can do. would it
alliminate leakage due to a slightly out of line main that was caused by the front of the crancase being welded a good many years ago before
I bought it. it is probably why it lay about in bits for 35 years.
Currently I’m doing my engine (with the help of father and son Moss). One of the mods I’m doing is fitting seals.
Fitting seals implies that you have to make new washers for setting the crankshaft float. I’ve had mine made to spec by Richard Moss to replace the gland and bearingretainerplate as one unit.
Also there is the need for some none return valves in the oilfeeds.
I think it’s a job any technically minded person could tackle.
I’m documenting my rebuild/tuning on Flying Squirrel.nl. So far concerning the seal conversion I’ve only described measuring the endfloat. My thrustwashers are in the mail now so I hope to finish my engine soon. Of course the rest of the story and my experiences with the converted engine will be put on line too.
You think its leaking because the main cup isnt parallel to the crank axis to the extent that the gland cant compensate?
that sounds a bit scary!
obviously there are quite a few repercussions to misalignment down there which can cause tears, but realignment of welded cases, is a tricky and costly business…
yes .. A seal would .. well .. seal.. and is quite a simple procedure although there are a few ways of doing it in circulation.
Some people make a bronze top hat bush that is pushed into the rear aperture of the mains cup and that carries a seal in the middle. The ‘brim’ of the bush serves as the thrust face to the original roller plate.
Ive seen cranks with hardened sleeves fitted to run seals on but you can also run them straight on the crank which is simpler and this is what we do..
We make Alu bronze internally screwcut roller plates to the appropriate sizes to run directly against the cup gland face and push a seal straight into the rear aperture of the cup..Simple.
As Erik says.. you need to use non return valves. We make them to a design my Dad hashed out years ago using small discs as the valve but there are other methods using balls… and i am sure you can get something like this commercially ..