Well, here it is.
I have done the following since I got it a bit over 1 year ago:
Motor refresh from Tim Pearce
New BTH Magneto
Fuel tank lined
New clutch plates and springs
New magneto chain
New Avon tires and tubes
Proper radiator cleanout
Lighting, including a brakelight to make street legal
Clean and re-lube everything else
Now I’m almost ready to take it to a show here in Texas on November 5th. Runs well, especially when cooler. Seems to get a bit ‘soft’ on power when fully warmed. Rich, maybe?
I have not changed the plugs since replacing the magneto. The spark will burn through anything, including my 70/1 oil in the gas. I have not been able to stop the oil pump leaking all over. That was partially the reason for the new clutch plates, as oil was getting onto the mag chain and into the clutch drum. My main last leak seems to be from behind the pump. Any recomendation on stopping the leak? In the meantime, I bent a piece od thin steel sheet to fit as a bit of a deflector to keep the oil off of the clutch. The new clutch plates from the spares scheme were a bit big in the tabs for my clutch basket, but it did not take long to file them down to size. Also, the springs are slightly bigger than the ones I took out, and are not a perfct fit, but they work.
My carb needle body also has a leak at the bottom section threaded piece. How do you seal that up?
I also put on a bicycle speedo and a proper kill button. One of the rear wheel bearings does not fit as tightly as I would like. I have shimmed it with a piece of coke can and I think it will work for the limited riding that I do. Oh, I have the sprocket cover plate, but for the life of me I can’t figure out how to mount it back up. It just has the bolt in the center, and I don’t know where it goes!
I guess I can’t post the photo, but here is a link to it:
Looks great Mark! I wish I was a bit closer so I could see in person.
Well done Mark, your bike is an inspiration to others still struggling to get theirs together!
What a nice looking bike!
You mention power softening when it gets hot.
If you are using thick oil in fuel or have had any ports “refined” you might need a bigger main jet. Also be sure you are not running too far advanced. They are deceptive. Too much advance feels like it is making more power because it is a little more harsh, but causes it to run hot.
They do loose a little power when hot as the burn is quicker. Try retarding a little.
I hope you have many years of pleasure with your bike and by example gain converts to the cause!
Thanks for the comments.
Roger, you are probably right on the timing. I have it set by “guesstimate”. It starts very easily when cold. It does not ever backfire and idles well. I had not run it for about 6 weeks and it fired up on the very first kick! I will retard it a bit and see if that helps when warm.
The bike looks superb, you must be very happy with her.
I have a more modern Flyer but have had the same problem with leaking fuel. I wrapped mine with PTFE tape as used by plumbers on central heating systems etc. There should also be a gasket between the body when you screw it up, which may have hardened in the fuel over time.
With the wheel bearing I presume you are referring to the bearing housing having worn larger and you have fitted a shim between the outer race of the bearing and hub. I don’t see a problem as long as it is tight, although I would have suggested Locktite for bearing. Some on the inside & outside of the shim would have adhered the drum to the outer race to try to prevent any further movement.
Hoping you have many happy years riding such a lovely looking bike.
Well, the show was execellent! Perfect fall day in Texas with blue skys and 80 degree temps.
My Scott took 2nd in the Antique class, to a beautiful 1911 Pierce.
Here is a link to some photos that I took of my Scott, as well as a couple other bikes at the show and some of my other bikes. The Kawasaki tripple, Z1, 750 Turbo and the turbocharged Victory cruiser are mine.