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hdoes anybody on the forum have experience on fitting neoprene seals if so could you advise if there any traps to watch out for, or proceedure that should be followed ❓ also how is the correct end float achieved.
thanks barry carlisle
You can find an article about the seals in “Technicalities” para 2.4 page 34.
You can get the technicalities by contacting steven@enticott.com.au
For the end float, chech the home page of Roger Moss (you will also find it mentioned in Technicalities)
Hi Barry,
If you fit neoprene seals, make sure they are manufactured by VITON – as some inferior seals deteriorate under the efects of modern fuels.
Regartds,
Stan Thomas.
Well for those that dont have dial indicators i am sure you can use a vernier caliper depth reading from the door register to assess the clearance figure.. just push the cranks from one side to the other. One thing worth noting is that it is worth making these measurements having established that the measurement you are making is between the roller plates and the back faces of the cups and NOT the back of the cranks themselves fouling on the cup rim or the shrink ring (if not flush). You can spend a lot of time messing around if you do not establish this first as i just have during this past week.I think it was a close run thing..trying to measure only with the roller plates in and no shims or glands..If youve got a pair of glands, just put them in to set up (or if you dont.. they are about 60 thou thick.. you can put shims against the roller plates up to this figure). To be sure.. with the case on its left side just sit the lh crank in the cup with just the roller plate on and measure to a set point on the crank face from the door register then stick a shim in front of the roller plate and measure again. if the figure is the same.. you are sitting on the back of the crank , if it is less but not the thickness of the shim you fitted, it was sitting on the back of the crank but it isnt now.. and if it the same difference as the thickness of the shim you added, it was all a waste of time reading this.. rinse and repeat for the other side..
I just thought id tell you that..i wish id done it myself..I turned and screwcut two new roller plates earlier this week from aluminium bronze (to run direct against the back of the cup.. to be used with a seal fitted straight in the bore of the cup itself) to the figures i measured that turned out to be wrong.. ..
by the way we work to a nominal 0.012″ endfloat.
I am in process of rebuilding my 1949 flyer (the one with coil ignition and double delivery oil pump) and am wondering if anyone is actually running an engine on the (improved)? seals.
It seems to me that the best lubrication must be by petroil, but I would very much welcome comments from “them as know”!
Apart from rejetting the carb are there any pitfalls?
HELP!!!!!!!!
On the side issue of crank end float the factory figure was one sixtyfourth of an inch. I am the proud owner of the the late Tom Ward’s notebooks, and newer members will not know that he actually worked for AAS and for two generations he repaired Scott engines to a superb Standard. The end float figure is just one of the many gems in the notebooks. One day I must find the time to extract all the stuff that is relevant to Scotting today and ask our Editor to publish it in Yowl