I have just bought a Scott, a 1925 3 speeder – it was sold on eBay (https://tinyurl.com/yal8faa item number 230444389330).
It seems to be a Squirrel or Super Squirrel with a 600cc engine, frame number 89 and engine number Y7725. The last owner tells me is running it on petroil premix though it doesnt look like its been used much since a rebuild.
I am new to Scott owning so there is a lot to learn! I am very impressed with the amount of info that is available on line. I have sent off my membership form to the club so am looking forward to getting on the road.
Craig (based in the UK, Salisbury area)
Welcome to the Scott riding clan and congrats on your new bike! Your link does not seem to work though…
I am sure you will find the Scott community a very helpfull one.
A hint: start by reading Technicalities. That will keep you busy for a while… 😉
Thanks Erik – sorry, shoudl have been:
Yes, I have printed out the technicalities…
welcome, and it seems to be a nice tidy bike too.
the reference in the advert about not knowing if the frame and engine had been together since the start – you can ask the VMCC to look into the works dispatch records and that will tell you if you are curious. It may also confirm it to be a standard or super model. It may also be worth dropping a note to Ian Parsons, the club machine registrar who’s details you’ll see when you get the Yowl magazine.
Welcome to the club and the forum.That looks a nice bike. 😀
Ahh, now I can see it. Nice bike!
😀 Welcome to the world of 3-Speed Supers (or standard if that’s what it proves to be). Whatever, it certainly looks good and I do hope you enjoy it.
I too have a 3-Speed Super (1924/26 is – its a long story), so thought I’d drop a few notes that you might find useful. Please don’t feel down if the last 2 or 3 points I raise seem a bit negative – they are just things you NEED to know. I can tell you that I love owning and riding my 3-Speeder 😀 .
Firstly – it is indeed, as you say – a 3-Speeder – but you will find yourself in a bit of no-mans-land with this machine (the vast majority of Scotts fall into 2 other brackets; “2-Speeders” and “Flyers” (Flyers bieng 3-Speed obvioulsy) though there are other derivatives such as Sprint Specials). Anyway – 3-Speed Supers are not as common as the other “Big 2 groups”.
Secondly – if ever you talk about you engine, you will find most people will refer to your “type” of engine as a “2-Speeder” – bit confusing to begin with, but this is because 80% of the time your engine is found on 2-Speeders and the majority 80% forget the lesser 20% of occasions where it is used on 3-Speeders.
❓ Thirdly – looking at you engine and give the year – it looks like a “Narrow Bearing Engine” (you can tell by looking at the sides of the engine where the crankcase doors are – if they are flat then it is definitely a narrow bearing crank – if it swells out by 3/8 of an inch or so around the crankcase door – then its a wide bearing crank). “Narrow” means the big ends are only 1/4″ wide, whereas “Wide” mean they are 3/8″ wide like the later Flyer engines. No big issue – but as a narrow bearing crank is inherently weaker than a wide bearing crank – just take on board all the warnings about ensuring little end alignment / big end bluing etc to ensure the crank gets as easy a time as possible.
Fourth – If you get any queries about the gearbox side of life, yours appears to be the “Wobbly Walking Stick” variety.
❗ 🙁 Fifth – You have the narrow type Scott Front Forks – these are great in many ways – but you will see from various reports, that the fork stem (bit going through the Frame Headstock, not the bit in front where the spring action takes place) is VERY prone to cracking / snapping – which if this happens can be catastrophic – for the bike AND YOU. So read up on this bit and get it checked out.
❗ 🙁 Sixth – Yours is the original Scott front “brake” – more of an ornament than a brake – and again there are some serious safety related issues with respect to the brake plate anchoring mechanism – which you would be wise to pay some specific attention to.
❓ Seventh – the Undertray for mounting the engine / gearbox is particularly prone to cracking (from photos yours looks good – but this is an area where “A stitch in time” is well worth keeping in mind – so keep a good eye open for cracks (especially around the rear mouting lugs).
Both 5 & 6 are covered in some of the recent past Scott eNewsLetters – if you let me have you email I can send copies of the specific editions to save you trawling.
Do hope you enjoy.
Thank you for the email Graham – PM sent to you direct.
I have managed to upload better photos from the eBay auction here:
The crankcase doors seem to bulge outwards slightly but the sides of the crankcase are flat so I guess its a narrow bearing crank?
It is difficult to tell with your crankcase doors as it looks like they have been made, I believe (and refering to engine Y82xx I’ve got) it would have had cast doors with 6 radial webs going to a central pip that the strap pushes on.
Either way its easy to check, just take the doors off and measure the width of the conrod big end eye. I’d suggest you take the doors off anyway and poke about in the lower oil well with a magnet (the type on a telescopic rod for fishing lost bolts out of the flywheel area work well!!) to ensure it is not full of metal particles and the BE bearing plates are not dished and bright blue. Also check the crankpin bolts are tight, the last engine I got they were both hand tight, the owner had been using it for a year like that!
Two things:- 1. I think the sliding member of your forks is assembled 180 deg out of
bonk. The brake will then be on the other side causing
the rod to take a better line at the rear down to the operating arm.
It will look better but the braking effect will be as bad.
2. The early webbed crankcase doors were fitted with aluminium
pressed cover which I think are fitted to your machine looking
at the pictures.
I agree with Richard over the type of crankcase doors that were fitted, but available at the time were domed sheet aluminium covers that fitted over the ribbed doors, presumably to make cleaninig easier.
Had a good look at the pics and still wonder how I missed out the brake on the wrong side the first time I looked at it 😳
I do see that your bottom radiator hose is pretty kinked (good word??)
At my bike this cause the radiator to boil. Maybe worth correcting.
My 1925 two speeder also has the front brake on the “wrong side” which is actually correct for my model which is a Standard. Maybe some of the early three speeder models also had their brakes on that side! I can’t verify that as all my documentation is back in the UK.
Thank you everybody!
I looked through as many pics as I could find and spotted the domed cover in some period shots so hopefully thats what these are.
Yes, I thought maybe the brake was on the wrong side – forks being 180deg out would explain why the stop is on the other side. How do I tell if the forks are back to front though?
Many thanks again,