Oil – novice needs help

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

Ok been doing a bit more reading as I am conscious not to start taking anything apart until I am 100% sure it is the correct thing to do.

Firstly, I now (I think!)  understand how to remove the crankcase cover and add oil (say, Silkolene Comp 2 or Smith & Allen T2 – but a synthetic of this type). Presumably I only need to do this on oneside (i.e pilgrim pump side).  As an aside, is three anyway of actually checking the oil levels in the engine or gearbox (dip stick) –  I can find one, but could just be me!?

Secondly, Re: gearbox oil (140 grade, synthetic – whaever brand!) – there is a cap on top of the gearbox which is not very accessible, presumably that is where the gearbox oil is added. Is there an easy way to get to this or is if just a challenge (it’s all a challenge for me!).

Thirdly, what coolant is recomended for the radiator – or should I just stick with water?

As FYI I am currently removing the tank as i think it has slight rusting inside so will get this sorted first.

Thanks is advance.

 

[ScottyH]

If your not a member of the SOC, i’d recommend that you join it as there is lots of information available which you will find useful and helpful.

Both crankcase wells need to have oil in them as they are not interconnected unless your engine had been modified from standard, without removing the crankcase doors there is no other way of physically checking the levels.

There are a number of  views regarding gearbox oil, some use Straight 30, some use 30 grade castor others use Thioxtropic lubricant, fill via the large cap using a suitable tundish or similar.

The gearbox has a level plug, fill the gearbox until oil just runs out of the plug – the gearboxes are not particularly leak free, there are mods you can do to improve them but if you overfill it it will make matters worse, generally they will find their own level providing the shaft bushes aren’t excessively worn!

With respect to Coolant again there are a number of different schools, Fernox Alphi 11 is as good as anything, other antifreezes are also good as long as its suitable for the metallurgy (cast iron, Brass & aluminium)  ideally with demin water – I personally wouldnt use straight water due to the potential for frost damage if you forget to drain down before winter.

Good Luck

 

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

Thanks so much. That explains what I was thinking. Yes, I am a member and have been using the forum a bit, which has been really helpful (especially for a complete novice, like myself). I am slowly working out what I need to do (and what questions I actually need to ask!) again, many thanks – I doubt this will be the last time I tap up this forums knowledge.

[willsleddon]

<p style=”text-align: center;”>Hi Chris. I use Putoline 2t in my bike because it is available from my local stockist and I use it in my high revving RDs which do indeed get revved. I also do a 1 to 50 mix in the tank by filling it up and giving a 2 to 3 second squeeze of the same oil in the tank. It smokes and I have recently turned down the pilgrim pump settings to make it less smokey but still with oil passing the pilgrim windows at 1 drop per 7 to 8 seconds when just over Rickover. DO NOT mix 2 stroke with 4 strokes oils as they turn to paste under heat. It is worthwhile knowing that the oil delivery system works by vacuum from the cylinders so any leaks you have will suck air in and not oil and make the mixture weak to boot so if any joints are oily, I would be suspicious. From my experience you can use any 2T synthetic or otherwise and this has applied equally to my Yams which live on the edge. As they should. If the Scott had an outer crank bearing I might be inclined to treat my engine similarly but with two quite big pistons accelerating and decelerating faster than a fluorescent light tube I employ a bit more care, especially as you don’t know how much fatigue the metals of your engine have endured and how long you have got before that endurance reaches finality.</p>

[willsleddon]

I am in Chester on 07531781196 if you want to get in touch. Will.

[willsleddon]

Sorry that should have to Iain. I had to have a few Scott lessons to understand that it isn’t what you imagine, but better.

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

Many thanks, Will. All advice I’ve received has been really useful to help me learn what I need to do. I am currently pulling together all the oils and parts I need, then am going to steadily embark on getting the bike up and running. It is a very sound/good condition bike, as my dad did plenty of work on it, so hopefully should be straightforward. I appreciate your mobile number and may, if I get stuck, give you a call  if you don’t mind. Again, to you and everyone else on the Club forum, many thanks.

[chris wastell]

Removing the crankcase doors isn’t as daunting a task as you may think. They are held on with little clamps each held in place by a 5/16BSF nut. Thats just over 1/2 inch across the hexagon or just smaller than 13mm.

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

Thanks Chris, I have to admit it was daunting when I first read what needed to be done. But when I checked the bike I thought I probably understood what to do. Your note had just confirmed it, so many thanks. Hopefully I will have it up and running sooner rather than later.

[chris wastell]

Are you still struggling?

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

Hi Chris. Not struggling yet (maybe later I will be) ut I think I know the steps I need to take.

1) Get oil in the engine! Remove crankcase covers on either side and top up T2 oil until it fills the well up i.e. it just touches the bottom of the crankshaft on both cranks. Replace crank case covers ensuring well sealed. Then can top up external oil tank that feeds pilgrim pump. Will set pilgrims when the time comes.

2) Gear box. Use 140 gearbox oil (synthetic). The gearbox has a level plug (I havent located this yet) but I fill the gearbox until oil just runs out of that plug. There is a cap on top of the gearbox (which is not very accessible) so presumably pour oil in there using a funnel/tundish… and stop pouring when it comes out of the plug (when I find it!).

3) Water and coolant into radiator. ScottyH recommends Fernox Alphi 11.

4) Petrol Tank – before i do anything I am removing the tank and having it treated inside for any rust. Once that is sorted I will refit (of course!) and use a 75:1 petrol: T2 mix (same oil as engine). There seems to be debate on whether this is needed or not, or the ratio. But I figure a 75:1 mix wont hurt and can go from there. I am pretty sure the pilgrims are in good shape (and remember my dad saying they had been modified/improved in some way – no idea beyond that!).

5) Charge battery. Plugs etc all ok.

6) Make up some magic words and fire it up… who knows what will happen! Sounds too simple, but we’ll see how it goes.

That’s my plan (please feel free to point out any flaws). Hopefully all the advice from everyone on this forum will contibute to getting it running. Id never have even got this far witout the Forum.

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

So, Interestingly, I removed the crankcase cover (Left hand side). I think the magneto sits on this cover. Anyway, opened it up (not as daunting as expected) and there was clearly ‘oil in the well’ (im assuming it is the same on the otherside where the pilgrim pump sits on the crankcase cover – I dont want to remove it as there is a bit more plumbing on that side). Photos attached – the oil is a seemed to have green colour – not sure if that means there is coolant contamination or that’s just the colour of the oil.

On another note, I got some Rock Oil Synthesis 2 Injector for the engine. Anyone used this at all?

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[iainberesford69@gmail.com]

I just read online:” Two-stroke engine oils are perfectly miscible with the fuel; the mixture can be quickly identified thanks to the colour of the oil (red for the synthetic oil, blue/green for the biodegradable oil).” So Im thinking it may be ‘biodegradable, which I am assuming is a mineral oil and not synthetic. In which case I wont be using the synthetic oil. Unless I empty the engine and, I assume, it will have to be flushed 9no idea what that entails).

[Author]

Posts