paint/laquer for barrels

[chris wastell]

I know there has been much written in the past about the correct and the best way of achieving a nice finish on engine barrels but as I have mine stripped down I wonder what the latest “wonder product” or best technique might be. This is for a ’38 FS. Also, does anyone have any tips for removing the alluminium on the bore after a nasty nip-up please? (there’s nothing left to bore out)

Thanks in anticipation

[dave bushell]

Hi Chris
Careful scraping is probably the best snd approved way to remove the ally from the bore, but in the past I have run a rotary wire brush down the bore to clean it up without any obvious detrimental effect. When you say there is nothing left to bore out, what size is it bored out to at the present? I’m currently running one of my Scotts with 80 thou oversize bore and pistons.
Dave

[Roger Moss]

HMG Paints do exactly the job. It is a glass lacquer, in other words, a translucent lacquer. As far as I can determine, Scotts polished the iron block, then used an equivalent translucent lacquer. The polished iron gave a dull shine through the lacquer. Instead of brush painting, which is more difficult to do evenly and you have to wash the brushes out every time, I asked them to supply in aerosol cans, but I have to buy them in packs of 10, which is OK if you are doing barrels fairly often. I had thought that I could sell on to owners, but then I found that the post will not accept aerosols as they are considered hazardous and the parcel carriers who deliver the packs and are not so particular, are also more expensive, so I did’nt do it. If anyone is going to Mallory June 22 or 1000 bikes or founders day etc, I would be happy to take some along if anyone is interested. It makes a very good job, but like all painting, the preparation makes a difference. If the block is corroded, it will need either polishing out or the easier option, that also covers blemishes that would be visible through a translucent lacquer, is to fill, rub down then spray with a cellulose aerosol paint that equates in colour to the colour of polished iron. When that is dry, then spray (or paint) with the translucent lacquer and you will get a great authentic finish. Alfred would be proud!
herewith copy of my last order details
HMG Paints Ltd. PON 3852
Collyhurst 07-04-08
Manchester M40 7RU

Please Supply

1 off case of 10 Aerosol cans paint

Spec. 16oz AERO CEL / FS32 / PVC /RAD
UN No. 1950 Flash Point Below 0’C
MB162/CB311 Magenta Cellulose Glass Lacquer

1 off Carriage to above address

As previously supplied
Your Del Ref A5144125
Your Order Ref A4150582
Order Date 24-04-06

HMG Paints Ltd (Head Office)

Riverside Works
Collyhurst Road
Manchester
M40 7RU

Tel: 0161 205 7631
Sales: 0161 202 2277
Fax: 0161 205 4829

web: http://www.hmgpaint.com
email (sales): sales@hmgpaint.com
email (website): mhutton@hmgpaint.com

If you can not take aerosol, they sell paint

Kind Regards
Roger

[chris wastell]

Thanks fpr the replies. Dave, I am at +80 as well (Silk pistons)unfortunately. I have now removed the engine. One big end has worn through on both bushes so is shot. The other has blued the rollers and the outer bush is turning in the rod. Both little ends are gone. Both inner bushes ,which I believe should be very tight, slipped straight of the crank pins. 3 years and 6000 miles ago it was all perfect. At least the mains seem tight!

Thank you Roger. I am planning to go to Mallory though sadly not Scott-mounted. Yes please bring an aerosol of laquer. See you there.
Chris

[chris wastell]

Roger, I plan to be at Mallory for the 1000 bikes, should have made that clear. So if you would bring one of your aerosol stock then I would be very greatful. Thanks again.
Chris

[chstorm]

I can recommend Roger’s Cellulose glass lacquer, which he used on my 1938 Flyer cylinder block. It looks good. I remember vaguely (it is very hot in Oslo today – 30 degrees C) that Scott had the cylinder blocks polished and nickeled (matt, soft nickel polished) before the paint was put on. I may remember wrongly, but it would have been a good idea to avoid corrosion and an ideal background for the glass lacquer. Please correct me if I am wrong – I may have dreamt it!

[chris wastell]

Wouldn’t that leave you with a silver looking finish?

[chstorm]

With the lacquer covering it, I dont think that you will get a silvery finish, but obviously a brighter looking one, with a more translucent effect. It will be interesting to hear if there are other views on this from the older, more experienced and presumably wiser members than I. (I am only 64!)

[chris wastell]

I agree, it would be interesting. I have always been under the impression that we are aiming for a fairly deep red effect.

[Roger Moss]

I was fortunate to buy in 1967, a 28 TT Replica that had been left for repair with A E Reynolds at Liverpool in 1941. The owner never returned and fable has it that he perished on the Murmansk convoys. The bike had therefore been carefully stored 26 years and the barrel looked original, as did the rest of the bike. The point is that the colour produced by the translucent lacquer is as near as my memory serves to that colour if about 3 coats are applied over a surface that equates to polished iron. I did not notice evidence of pre plating, but I will have a hunt around and see if I still have it. As a “New Boy” I took tuning advice from a reputable person, but the proceedure certainly did not work for me (perhaps I misunderstood) so as the block was ruined, I put it on one side. I will report back on this. Another point, I have a small (unopened) tin of Tom Ward’s cylinder emamel, which was again a translucent lacquer. On the lid it has a dab of the paint on the tin coated steel of the tin and it looks identical. Perhaps as Tom worked with Alfred before WW1, he got to know who supplied the Scott works with the barrel paint. Kindest Regards Roger

[Martin27]

Hi,
just back to the old topic… I need to repaint my barrels as well, and during the searching I fount Translucent crimson for 2 speeder cylinder barrels in the Badges and Regalia topic here at the forum (item 26). I guess, it sshould be same one as early Flyers used?
Thanks,
Martin

[ERIC BAYLISS]

Martin I had a tin of that for my two speeder, it was not the same shade as rogers and it did not look half as good when done, I think it must be for the early two speeder. I then bought a tin from rodger and its just as he says and look great

[The Shipley Squirrel]

Chris wrote:-

I have now removed the engine. One big end has worn through on both bushes so is shot. The other has blued the rollers and the outer bush is turning in the rod. Both little ends are gone. Both inner bushes ,which I believe should be very tight, slipped straight of the crank pins. 3 years and 6000 miles ago it was all perfect. At least the mains seem tight!

Hi Chris,

Do you know what caused the engine to fail after just 6000 miles ?

Regards, Mark Compton

[fernyhough]

I bought an aerosol from Roger to use on my ’37 Flyer & can certainly recommend this. I used the whole can, applying around six coats which produced
a rich deep gloss. The end result exceeded expectation.
As always with paint, preparation is key to a good result.
Mike

[chris wastell]

Shipley Squirrel,
Hi, sorry but I don’t know what the cause was. I did ride it pretty hard, too hard, obviously! Several chaps more knowledgable than I, inspected the remains and the only thing anyone could think of was poor oiling but that still didn’t really explain it or, indeed show all the expected witness marks. Since its rebuild, it’s been OK, touch wood. 😕

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