I am about to respray the tank on my 1947 FS. It does not leak and has had petroil and oil in the compartments for some time.
I intend to sandblast before painting.
Any advice on procedure would be very welcome.
Thankyou Roger Hulett
You could always do my tank while you’re at it!
The only observation I’d make is that it is essential that the metal is primed right away. The sandblasting takes the surface right back to raw metal and even though it cannot be seen right away by the Mk.1 eyeball the surface immediately starts to oxidize and so requires sealing ASAP with a good primer or whatever system you plan to use for the best protection.
As to paints I’ve had excellent results with International two-pack yacht paint in the past. Even if brush applied once properly cured it can be smoothed to a very acceptable finish only limited by your time and patience. It is by design non porous, has good knock resistance and is pretty durable too.
I just had my tank resprayed professionaly. I described it om my website. Maybe this helps. Go to http://www.flyingsquirrel.nl , modifications, paintjob.
If I were you I would avoid sandblasting the tank. Sandblasting will hammer the surface and you risk deformation. Further, a lot of tin has been used when soldering the tank, especially in the front and in the back where the fastening bolt passes through the tank walls. Sandblasting tin is not very advisable. Instead of sandblasting, blasting with glass beads and steam is a much better and much more gentle method, and will not leave a surface full of craters.
As already mentioned, the tank must be painted with a good primer immediately after blasting. Wash well with cellulose thinner and dry thoroughly, preferrably with compressed air before applying primer. A modern etch-primer will be best. After sanding and preparing the surface to the best of your ability, apply a good surfacer and sand again with wet paper – type 800 and 1200. Apply surfacer again if necessary. A lot of time and patience spent at this stage is the most important contribution towards a perfect result.
Finally spray paint the dried and dust-free surface with a synthetic or acrylic paint compatible with the primer and surfacer used. These days I use acrylic paint 4 – 6 layers – then I apply the pinstriping and the transfers, and after that I apply 4 layers of clear acrylic lacquer. This gives a very strong and good-looking surface, and you can rub it and polish it without damaging the good looks – just like a cellulose lacquer.
I am just an amateur painter, but my experience is that with time and patience you can achieve an almost professional looking result.
Hi Carl. Thanks for the info. I do not have access to glass beads and steam but I do have a large blasting cabinet. Can you recommend dry glass bead blasting and if so,what grade of glass beads would you recommend.
Dry glass bead or ceramic bead blasting is OK – It may take longer time though. I would suggest round beads of medium-fine size – mesh size 100-170 (90-150 microns). The finer beads, the smoother result. Since I am no professional “blaster”, I would also suggest that you contact a company that uses glass bead blasting for a second opinion. Glass bead blasting is often used for cleaning machine parts like carburettors, and is also often used to prepare surfaces before nickeling and chroming – before the final polishing.
I have had my glass bead blasting done professionally, with steam, and I know that this method is very highly regarded. There may be other SOC members who can give further information and recommendations.