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I am about to make up some new oil lines from the Pilgrim (mounted on the RHS crankcase door) to the LHS and RHS crankcase inlet positions.
I notice that the previous lines are of unequal length (made worse by the LHS crankcase inlet being taken to the side outlet on the Pilgrim, which faces the front wheel – the RHS crankcase inlet being taken to the outlet under the Pilgrim).
The length of the lines therefore differ quite dramatically.
Is this a problem?
Should I change the feed from the Pilgrim to ‘side outlet – RHS inlet’ and ‘lower outlet – LHS inlet’ and also make the pipes equal length?
Never known the different pipe lengths to make any difference!
Dave, thanks for your comment. If no one has anything to add, I will leave the lines as they are.
Which brings me to another question (all relating to a 1930 TT Rep).
Having fitted the magneto drive chain, to make sure the oil lines are installed in the correct position to miss all the drive chains, I notice that the clutch cable is located directly below the magneto chain (it couldn’t really be in a much worse location).
Eddie Shermer made a new mushroom spacer for me, which doesn’t have the clutch cable location banjo. Has anyone come up with a cunning replacement for this? I would think that it would be advantageous to be able to move this along the mushroom spacer to ensure that the clutch cable is located exactly between the adjacent chains.
Which brings me to yet further questions.
Should the clutch cable run at the rear or the front of the mushroom spacer?
Also, when the cover is fitted over the magneto chain, should the clutch cable run below the cover and around/over the mushroom spacer? This would mean that the cable is bent quite severely, which can’t be good.
Advise greatly appreciated.
I’m no purist and I have a small tywrap round the carb float bowl and clutch cable so the cable is held central, nicely out of the way of the mag chain. It doesn’t show unless you give it some close inspection, the bike is mainly for riding though. 🙂
Hi Orgasmatron, if you don’t mind making up a new cable you can bring the cable in from the back of the gearbox so the outer butts up on the mechanism and the inner locates on the fixture on the gearbox casing. Not only do you avoid the chains but you get a sweeter run on the cable. Not my idea but I can’t remember whose bike I saw in on. Jeff Reed.
Thanks for the advise.
Would the new cable be installed upsidedown and then taken under the gearbox and around the rear?
I notice that the cover plate that screws over the top of the crankcase wings (I assume that this acts as a drip tray for the carb. as well as providing a guard for the magneto chain) has a slot in it to the RHS of the magneto chain and in front of the spacer mushroom. This suggests to me that the clutch cable might follow this route.
Hi again, as I recall the cable ran under the tank and curved round to come from the back of the gearbox, it certainly didn’t go under the ‘box. Hope this helps.Jeff.
I have an extra long cable that I will make up as suggested and see how it works.
On a different subject, do you know how much oil I should put in the gearbox and what type?
Hello Chris, I am working my way through a 5 litre can of Silkolene Rhino which is a 140 SAE gear oil. There are other makes available but you do need this grade. Dribble the oil in through the large cap until it comes out of the level plug designated 3098 on the drawing of the gearbox on page 60 in The Book of the Scott. If you don’t have this it is the hex bolt on the centre line of the gearbox to the right of the kick start.Jeff.
I assumed that this was the case, in respect of the filling.
With regard to the oil, I read in Technicalities that Mr Moss recommended R40 Caster oil, so I bought some of this.
Hello again Chris, some people have had problems using this oil, if you do a search on Castrol R40 you will be able to check out where things went wrong and how these were resolved for future reference (if you encounter the same issues).Best wishes, Jeff.
Yes, a 140 grade gear oil has no real issues, unlike the vegetable-based castor oil problems. When filling or topping up the gearbox, have the bike off its stand, with both wheels on a level surface.
Thanks for the advise. SAE140 it is then.
Anybody want a litre of Castrol R40 ?