As I sort out the various niggles with my 1936 Flyer, I’m gradually increasing the distance that I venture from home!
I went for my first slightly longer run today and when I stopped I noticed that the inner (LH) chamber of the pilgrim pump is filling up with oil.
It is set to deliver 1 drip about every 5 seconds at tick-over.
Why would it be filing up like this? Is it just because I have the oiling set too high?
I’ve watched it carefully with the cover off and both sides are sucking oil out of the chambers.
The RH drip rate is about the same as the LH but the RH side doesn’t seem to be filling up.
Puzzled. Again! Any pointers?
Could be a few things….. Is any oil leaving the side of the pump where it is backing up ? And does the level continue to increase or stay fairly constant ? It might be a stuck ball valve in that half of the pump, or a bit of muck somewhere, a kink in the pipe between pump and engine, or worst of all, the main bearing cup may have turned in the crankcase, thus blocking the feed hole. You ought to eliminate that possibility first…. Disconnect the pipe from that half of the pump, and push a piece of rubber tubing over the end that you can blow down. Maintaining air pressure with your mouth, very slowly turn the engine over, with the spark plugs removed, and at two or three times per revolution of the engine you should be able to blow air through the gland as the timed holes in the gland line up with the oil supply hole. If you can’t blow air through as described you have a full engine strip-down job on your hands, and realigning the main bearing cup is a specialist job.
FINGERS CROSSED !
I thought you might say something like that! Sigh.
Brian, thanks for the pointers. I’ll to the test you suggest when I can muster up some enthusiasm to tackle yet another problem!
Out of interest, where is the ball valve you mention, how would I get to it? Also, what does the ball valve do?
The engine does seem to be drawing in at least some oil on the side that is backing up. When I suck out the excess oil and run the bike on the stand I can see some oil gurgling down the hole. This is why I was ‘happy’ to ride the bike as I thought at least some oil was getting to the gland and main bearing. I’m also running on a 50:1 pre-mix as a disaster avoidance strategy!
The side that is backing up also doesn’t seem to ‘spit’ very well. Even with the bike on the rear stand (to include the beak) the oil still frequently crawls off the beak and runs down into the bowl.
Out of interest, the engine was recently rebuilt by Eddie S. with a load of work machining done by Roger M (and loads of new parts supplied) some I am kind of hoping that this reduces the chances of it being a major problem! The bike has only done a handful of miles since the rebuild.
I have just tried the test you suggested and I can indeed blow through the feed pipe. I can also hear the air coming out of the other end (crankcase door removed). There is also plenty of oil in the well on the affected side.
So whats next to check out? Any pointers are most gratefully received.
The oil build-up might just be a case of too much being fed by the pump into the affected well, but as the beak is not dripping cleanly it will be difficult to get the setting adjusted to a nicety. The beaks are made out of ‘Mazak’, a nasty brittle zinc material that cannot be bent down to assist the formation of the drips. All you can do is remove the beak (just a tight push fit into the main body of the pump), and carefully file a concave groove onto the underside of the beak. This will give you an area where the oil would have to run uphill if it doesn’t feel inclined to drip off the end of the beak ! In other words, it should now drip cleanly. While the beak is out, look down the hole that it has come from, and you will see the little ball of the spring-loaded ball valve, and you can give it a gentle prod to make sure that it is free to move.
As you are putting some oil in the petrol you need less through the pump, say eight to ten drips per minute each side, at a fast tickover, BUT, getting a reliable flow at such low flow rates is vital, yet at these low settings the pump plungers are hardly moving, just twitching really, and it doesn’t take much to stop them !!! This is why they get a bad name. One of the answers is to slow the pump right down with a reduction gear device, and you can then open up the adjusters to give a far more positive movement of the plungers, and good reliability, and less wear on the pump.
If you have a good look in ‘Technicalities’ you will find lots of previous articles on this subject.
Thanks Brian. I’ll see if I can get the beak out this evening. Whats the best way of getting it out (and back in). The combination of ‘tight push fit’ and ‘nasty brittle Mazak’ sounds like a breakage waiting to happen!
Is anyone making and selling reduction gear devices these days?
Hello p p if of any help a few years ago I replaced the crapite beaks on a pump fitted to a speedway J A P with homemade brass beaks ( ie
two bits of brass tube SILVER soldered together It worked for me but its your motor Regards D F
Thanks DF. I’ll look into that, but for the moment I’d like to avoid breaking the beaks that are currently fitted!
What diameter tube (od & id) did you use for your beaks?
BY the way, I forgot to ask, what is the function of the ball valve under the beak?
Some thin nosed pliers are the tool to use. Don’t panic if you break one as I have plenty of spares !
I don’t know of anyone making the reduction gears at the moment, so look around for an old Sturmey-Archer pushbike rear three-speed hub, and salvage the gears out of it. The instructions for making the gadget are in ‘Technicalities’, and perhaps Alan Noakes could make one up for you ?
Thanks for that Brian. I’ll take a look at this later. It’s good to know that replacement beaks are available.
By the way, if the ball valve is at fault should I expect to see the feed chamber filling up with the oil tap open but the engine NOT running?
I can try this experiment if it tells me anything.
There is no chance of me making a reduction gear – my engineering knowledge stops at knowing which end of a screwdriver to hold!
I don’t know what I was thinking when I bought my Scott. I just hope the poor thing can survive in my hands 🙄
I will pop an SAE in the post to you very shortly so I can get hold of a copy of your Pilgrim pump notes. I think I need all the help I can get!
Maybe it would make sense to buy a couple of spare beaks off you at the same time. Just in case!
Let me know how much £ to send you is that’s an option.
I don’t suppose there is much chance of finding a spare pump that someone would sell me?
Mine seems to be an early one with the lock nuts on the adjusters.
It is a real pain to adjust so it would be great to find a later one with the improved(?) adjusters.
Another long evening in the garage & I fear I’m none the wiser!
I got the LH beak out without breaking it and fished the ball (appx 3.85mm diameter) out with a magnet. It looked clean so did the seat. I cleaned them anyway (carefully) with a cotton bud and blew some air (from an air duster can) down the hole to finish off. There was no obvious visible problem. Baffled.
If anyone wants to add another Scott to they’re collection the drop me a line! All reasonable offers considered.
If not then I’m back to scratching my ever growing bald patch whilst staring at the bike waiting for inspiration…. 😕
Don’t give up Peter .The first Scott that I owned ( 1960 ) was a 1930 flyer a proper parentless horror that coupled with youth gave me a year or two of probs I swore that a Scott would never again darken my door I have not been without a Scott of some sort from that time . The brass beaks that I made were the same diameter as the crapite originals turned and bored from brass rod. still in the J A P and working ok. Regards keep at it D F.
I There are ways of converting the pil grim ! to a drip feed I have no idea how this is accomplished but I bet someone will .
I found time to run the bike again yesterday and the problem seems to have gone away. So hopefully cleaning the ball valve did the trick! Time will tell…
Thanks for all the help.