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can anyone tell me why the scott rad” has domes on the header tank ,I’m trying to build my own brass rad” and I can”t for the life of me figure out why these domes are there apart from appearances? I would also like to know if there is a four speed gearbox available to suit a 49′ fl.squirrell? as 1st gear seems too high and top gear seems to overrev the engine just to keep a steady 60 m.p.h. I’ve tried fitting a 24 t, outrigger cog but that made 1st gear almost impossible to take off, fearing I would burn out the clutch, I quickly put the 22t back on, any advice would be welcome. Midge.
Without actually riding the bike and giving it a good dose of ‘lookin’ at’, it is impossible to be too specific, but on the 22T final drive sprocket there is no way it could be over-revving at 60mph unless the clutch was slipping, and a 21T is correct for a solo post-war Flyer. I have a suspicion that you are not used to two-stroke twins ? In which case you think it is over-revving when in fact it is not !
Brian
@midge wrote:
can anyone tell me why the scott rad” has domes on the header tank ,I’m trying to build my own brass rad” and I can”t for the life of me figure out why these domes are there apart from appearances? I would also like to know if there is a four speed gearbox available to suit a 49′ fl.squirrell? as 1st gear seems too high and top gear seems to overrev the engine just to keep a steady 60 m.p.h. I’ve tried fitting a 24 t, outrigger cog but that made 1st gear almost impossible to take off, fearing I would burn out the clutch, I quickly put the 22t back on, any advice would be welcome. Midge.
Maybe to stop the effects of heat distortion, which you get on square structures
I am also relatively new to Scotts. When I first rode my ’47 Flyer, one of my first impressions was also that 3rd felt under-geared at 60 (shortly followed by the horror at how poor the front brake was). The engine felt comfortable up to about 50-55 but 60+ feels like you are thrashing it even though there are lots of rpm to come. I think that is just the nature of the beast!
Keith
T hanks for the replies, I can see that distortion could be a reason for fitting domes, so I will now try to make a couple,any ideas how. Regarding the revvs and three speed box ,my bike easily does 40m.p.h. in first gear, this is what prompted my query in the first place ,is this normal ? or have I got a ”doctored” gearbox!.
You just might have a set of close-ratio cogs instead of the medium-close ratios that were standard.
As regards making new radiator end caps, have you tried Graham Moag, the Spares Secretary ? If you are determined to make a pair I reckon you could do it with a hardwood block, turned in a lathe to the correct convex profile, and a matching block with the concave shape, then a piece of annealed brass sheet between them, and into a fly press. No idea how you could make the embossed Scott Limit Gauge badge to suit though!
Brian
Thanks Brian, I do need a couple of other things so I’ll see if graham can help. I don’t suppose you would know of a “normal” gearbox for sale, or set of gears to suit ?
Sorry no idea where you may be able to get a complete gearbox, but you could try an advert in Yowl or the VMCC Journal. Individual gears (new) are available from The Velocette Motorcycle Company and from British Only (Austria). Look in ‘Technicalities’ for the various ratios, number of teeth on each gear, etc..
Brian
It would be worth working out what your various transmission ratios are and then using the outside diameter of the rear tyre, establish what engine revs result in what road speed in what gear. You can then start to see what you actually have. Ive done it myself a few times.. Its very useful information. You probably aren’t going to want to rev past 4000 to 4500 anyway but if your engine isn’t in great shape, it might sound like it’s revving more than it is. Also, you may have a clutch issue. Vintage close ratios are not that close and although a bit of clutch slip may be required in first, you certainly wouldn’t be over revving in top if that were the case if engine and clutch were in good order. I race with a vintage close and although I’m a bit slow off the line, I would think it’s doing at least 80mph at the end of the back straight at Cadwell at around 4750rpm…I’ve worked it out myself before but I can’t remember exactly.
Good luck getting it sorted
Richard
There are two possible routes to making domes. The down side is that you’ll need a reasonable degree of machinist expertise and access to a lathe for both.
SPINNING: When you see someone who has the “feel” for the metal spinning craft it looks SO easy – it ‘aint! That is not to say, by any means, that you should not give it a go but you must be prepared for more scrappers than good-uns! I have little advice to offer on the metal spinning art, I have had mixed results when I have had a go, the score is about 50:50 so far!
PRESSING: You would need to make a simple press tool, I did this many years ago when I wanted some special door knobs – one of them “7/6d down, payments for life and no time off for good behaviour” jobs – Nuff said! The down-side with this method is that, in addition to a lathe, you will need access to a substantial fly or hydraulic press. The up-side is that the outcome is a lot more certain.
The tool itself need only be a punch, a die, a nest and a cover plate. A thickish piece of mild steel with a hole of the required dome diameter and with a generous radius, (all polished), will do just fine for a limited number of domes.
You will also need a “nest” to locate the blank in, this will fit on top of the die. The thickness of the nest needs to be a little thicker than the brass dome blank.
Because the brass blank will be deformed when forced through the die the diameter of the nest needs to be 1.414D for a hemisphere where D = Diameter of dome. If a blank of this diameter proves insufficient then it is a simple enough matter to increase the diameter of the nest and blank. Too much blank diameter will result in a much greater force being required to force the brass through the die and might be more than you can muster. A real case of “less is more”!
A cover plate fitted above the nest will also be needed, this item is to [a] control the brass blank the edges of which will otherwise buckle and provide a close fitting guide for the punch.
Finally a punch, the “business end” of which is made to the profile desired for the dome less twice the thickness of brass blank.
With this kind of rather basic tool the punch is pushed right through the die, the brass can then be easily removed from the punch by the judicious use of a drift.
The best and most ductile material to use is C26000 brass also known as Cartridge Brass.
With regard to the “Limit Gauge” logo: Embossing is not really a practical proposition on a “one-off” job like this but there are firms that etch brass and nickel-silver sheet for the model railway hobbyist. There would of course be a cost which might be an issue but the results I have seen are excellent and could be easily sweated onto the domes. A nickel-silver logo on polished brass would look rather smart methinks.
I have the standard sprockets etc on my ’47, and I always feel that it’s over-revving when I’ve turned on the taps. I suppose it’s all a matter of perception and experience. Not many times I’ve wished for a tacho, but it would be handy here.
Re the Scott emblem on the rad dome. I had the domes replaced on an early thirties rad and when the old domes were removed it was found that the emblems were just soldered onto the domes.
Dave
@dave bushell wrote:
Re the Scott emblem on the rad dome. I had the domes replaced on an early thirties rad and when the old domes were removed it was found that the emblems were just soldered onto the domes.
Dave
This is correct , a written build description says that the back of the emblem was filled with solder then put onto the end cap