Assuming that you have the correct 7″ Scott/Enfield rear hub and brake with six cush drive rubbers behind the sprocket, there is no offset. In other words the wheel rim should be centrally positioned between the spoke flanges. As a final check that you have a genuine wheel, there should be an “S” stamped on the inner part of the hub in direct line with the grease nipple hole. Hubs supplied by Enfield to other manufacturers were slightly different so my advice might not apply to them. For example those supplied to Brough have a “B” stamped on them, “P” for Panther, “N” for Norton, etc.. These have a different chain line, with less or more offset built into the sprocket, different sizes and shapes of spoke flange, etc.. They can be cobbled up to fit a Scott but may need some offset building into them.
Hello Erik, well it’s a bit of a story, my father and I purchased 3 basket case Scott’s, we sold 1 to fund the other 2, and because I have a business with a machine shop every time I make some parts for the Scott its easier for me to make a small batch. Just to list a few bits I have done so far :-
• Rear hub driving sprocket locking ring, in spring steel , to stop it going out of shape
• Adaptor sleeves for new type tapered head stock bearings
• Rear hub bolts
• New sealed ball race bearings for rear hub
• New spindles in 16T
• Engine bolts
• Crank shaft bolt
• New wide and narrow fly wheel sprockets
These are the ones we have completed so far but there is loads more in the pipe line!
If there was something you were interested in I could always make it for you.