Royal Enfield Rear wheel 1927 on

[Deleted User]

Does anyone have details/photos/drawings of the cush hub and spindle of this item? I have the hub, new rubbers and spider/sprocket but no idea of what the three through bolts look like or how they are secured or what the spindle looks like-particularly at the sprocket end.

[Deleted User]

If no luck with a drawing try the Brough Sup club.Good luck regards D F.

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I’m not near my bike at the moment so cannot take any more pics, but here are some I had on my computer. Is it this type of hub you are talking about?

This is one I did an off the shelf bearing conversion on as the standard taper rollers where shattered (literally) and I could not find replacements. However the orignal parts are in the pics, see descriptions below each picture. In this conversion I retained the original spindle and nuts so from the outside it looks original, but is far more durable and easier/cheaper to service with no cones to adjust/grease etc.

Original rear spindle (top) with my new spacer tube below

New roller bearing fitted to the brake drum side

Spacer fitted and ready for the drive side bearing to be inserted

Drive side roller bearing fitted and showing spacer for brake plate

Original taper roller bearings for the rear wheel

For info the 3 bolts that hold the sprocket on are simple slot type dome headed bolts that sandwich a plate, the sprocket and the hub. I can do some pics/dimensions over the weekend if you are stuck.

Cheers,
Rich

[Deleted User]

Thanks Richard
If you get a chance to detail the bolts that would be great
I am trying a taper roller replacement first

[Anonymous]

Here are the pics of the bolts in and out of the bike. The standard taper roller inner race is threaded to screw onto the spindle and if you rear back a few Yowls Roger Moss explains how to correctly assemble these as a mistake results in a locked rear wheel which is not fun whilst riding. I’d suggest if you can to change to off the shelf rollers as a matter of course.

From the inside – spring washer and plain nut

From the outside showing the dome head bolts and the steel ring they bolt through – spring washer on this side too

I took a bolt out for you, note the step in the bolt shank.

Cheers,
Rich

[Deleted User]

Ah ha! 😀
there is a ring goes on top, and its a 2 diameter bolt, thats what I was looking for, thats great many thanks.
I must confess I was thinking of following Vincent practice with the wheel spindle arrangment. In that wheel (with taper bearings) there are no threads except the big nuts on the ends of the outer hollow spindle which snuggs into the frame so every thing, brake plate bearings etc, is shimmed and spaced along that and the actual inner spindle passes through the lot and simply bolts up.

I have ordered some tapered rollers off the shelf that are nearly a perfect size I have to make up a brake drum assembly as well since that is also missing so we shall see.
Again Richard many thanks

[shallam]

When refitting my Enfield rear wheel after brake work. I spun the wheel and noticed a ‘wobble’ in the chain sprocket
The 3 bolts that hold the sprocket in place were all able to be rotated with a turn of a screw driver, even though the nuts were tight and held very firmly in place with some form of strong loc tite. In a previous post by Richard Blackburn he shows the bolts held by spring washers front and back. Is this correct and would it cure my spinning bolts and help compress the cush rubbers to get the sprocket running true?

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Perhaps a silly question, but do you have the correct steel ring holding the sprocket in place, with the three slot-headed, stepped shank bolts holding it in place ? The sprocket is not intended to compress the cush rubbers in a static position, and it must be able to rotate slightly in both directions, with the movement being controlled by the three vanes on the back of the sprocket engaging between the three pairs of cush rubbers, and limited by the extent of the three arcuate slots in the sprocket face.
Brian

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

It should also be noted that Enfield made these hubs for a number of different motorcycle manufacturers, and the intended original buyer had their own initial letter stamped on the inner section of the hub directly in line with the grease nipple hole. So, you will see S for Scott, N for Norton, B for Brough Superior, P for Panther, and so on. All these makers specified slightly different dimensions between the spoke flanges, different shaped spoke holes, different offset to the sprocket, and so on. What I am saying, by a roundabout route (!), is that you may have a mongrel rear hub and brake assembly, rather than a pedigree Scott one, and so something might not be fitting properly. Even the length of the stepped section on the three retaining bolts might be causing the problem you have described. It needs a good stiff “lookin’ at” ! While you are doing that, check that the inner bore of the sprocket is a nice sliding fit onto the spigot in the hub. If it is loose and rattly due to wear it needs a thin sleeve installing in the sprocket in order to restore the correct working clearance. Alan Noakes can do this for you.
Brian

[Deleted User]

Reference Royal Enfield rear wheel I have a ring that has the three bolts riveted in place. It was purchased from a RE dealer many years ago, might be worth a call if you know of anyone who deals in Enfield spares. Jeff Reed.

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

I had one of those years ago too ! It came from Burton Bike Bits, of Burton-upon-Trent, Staffordshire. When I was rebuilding a late Shipley Scott they also supplied me with an unused Lucas DKX2A distributor. They had them because they were also fitted to the early 1950’s Royal Enfield 500 Twin. Enfield India still make batches of bits for the earlier rear wheels, and some of them can be used on Scotts, including the sets of six cush rubbers.
Brian

[shallam]

Right then Brian
I have given the wheel “a good stiff “lookin’ at” some good news but mostly bad……
Good news an S on the hub.
[attachment=2:3owjccrq]P1100495.JPG[/attachment:3owjccrq]
Next
The steel ring holding the sprocket in place, with the three slot-headed, stepped shank bolts is very badly worn and thin around the holes for the bolts. This view shows the inner face.
[attachment=1:3owjccrq]P1100497.JPG[/attachment:3owjccrq]

The cush rubbers show signs of wear due to the movement of the steel ring how it caused this I have no idea.
[attachment=0:3owjccrq]P1100466e.jpg[/attachment:3owjccrq]

continued…….

[shallam]

Right then Brian 2…
Re the three arcuate slots in the sprocket face. I had some interesting replies when looking up “arcuate.”
The bow shaped slots do not allow any movement as the bolts are a tight fit.
[attachment=1:3d2belfi]P1100500.JPG[/attachment:3d2belfi]

[attachment=0:3d2belfi]P1100499.JPG[/attachment:3d2belfi]

I have new cush rubbers and bolts from from the spares scheme but the bolts are not great and I have decided to replace them with new purpose made bolts with hex heads. Sorry but I want function over form.
The new cush rubbers will need fettling to fit.
A new steel ring will need to be fabricated.
The arcuate slots will need to be reprofiled to allow movement.
The inner bore of the sprocket has some wear but I am prepared to live with that for the time being.
Brian thanks for the checklist unfortunately I appear to have ticked most of the boxes.
Regards
Steve

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Oh dear, that’s a lot of boxes to tick…. Look in the latest (October) Yowl, bottom of page 178, and give Alan Noakes a call. He is equipped to sort out all your sprocket problems, but might need to see the complete back wheel to check on any ovality where the bolts go through it. Don’t try and live with the wear in the bore of the sprocket as that is probably a major cause of your problems. It is important that the sprocket is a nice working ‘fit’ onto the spigot in the hub. Give him a call to discuss it anyhow. He is only in the very next county to you. Sorry to have worried you with the word ‘arcuate’. It really only means arched, or ‘bent like a bow’, but has zillions of medical meanings too !
Brian

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

For anybody still reading this stuff, and who is rebuilding their Enfield rear hub, I can supply sets of six new cush rubbers for £12.00, plus £2.00 for UK postage and packing. They should be installed using plenty of white (synthetic) grease, not ordinary grease as that decays rubber.
Brian

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