I am new to Scotts and not particularly adept when it comes to things mechanical. Having just bought a 1936 Squirrel (DPY) I am very much enjoying getting my head around these weird and wonderful machines. I will no doubt have to improve my spannering skills too!
I’m sure to have lots of questions to ask of all you Scott experts out there so I’d thought I’d start a topic to keep all my novice/daft questions in one place (which may then be useful to other Scott novices).
To kick off, my first question is about carbs. I want to remove mine so I can give it a good clean and I’d like to know if there are any tricks to removing, cleaning and refitting the carb on a DPY (with the engine in the frame).
Pete P. 😯
This is a five minute job. Remove the top where the choke and throttle cables are CAREFULLY. this will reveal the throttle slide and main jet, tie up somewhere so as not to cause any damage. Next disconect the fuel pipe and then undo the three retaining nuts with care so as not to drop them in the bottom of the engine. It should now be free to remove!
When reassembling great care must be taken not to get the needle in the wrong hole as it is easily bent.
There is a bike jumble at Cheltenham racecourse tomorrow, always worth a look though it is well worth getting there early.
James: Thanks for that, I shall tackle that job tomorrow evening if I get a chance. I presume from what you say that there is enough room to get the carb out as a whole (float chamber still attached). It all looks like it may be a bit of a squeeze to get the whole thing past the frame tubes.
Thanks for the heads up on the auto-jumble – I’ll see if I can negotiate a pass for her who must be obeyed!
James has already covered it, a nice simple job but as with anything else Scott related it can easily become a most infuriating and time consuming activity. My point mainly revolves around the Scott crankcase, which history has shown to become a black hole like abyss. Drop a washer, bolt or other important part down the side of the flywheel and recovery becomes a task you would wish on no person. This especially applies to engines that have a healthy coating of oil and chain lube down there as it acts like fly paper and you can then look forward to hours of fishing with bits of wire rod and torchlight.
So, I’d suggest before taking off the carb nuts/washers you use a piece of cloth or paper over the flywheel and under the carb to catch any dropped fasteners and such like. Use the same for putting them back on incase they are dropped at this stage.
My case in question was displayed last weekend when my mag chain broke and vanished. I was convinced it had left out the back of the bike but having walked the (long…) road I could not find it. A tow home was in order, but after taking the mag etc off and going to thread a new chain I found the old chain right at the front of the crankcase buried in all the crud. Now if you can lose 2 feet of chain down there a carb nut will never be seen again!
That is the reason I fitted two strong magnets in the bottom of my Flyers casing. Just to keep anything falling in away from the flywheel. Anything steel that is… And I also drilled two holes in the bottom as an extra way in for poking… It happens to all of us I guess!
Welcome to the most wonderfull world of Scotting!
One good reason not to use stainless steel fasteners in that area of the crankcase!
Does anyone have a reliable way of telling the difference between castor oil and mineral oil (when its not in a can!)
I’ve drained the oil (and fuel) from my DPY so I can clean out the tank and lines and I now need to replace the oil. I would like to use the same type of oil as used to be in the engine to avoid any chance of getting a castor-mineral sludge in the engine where there is no doubt traces of the old oil.
I have the old oil in a jug but I’m not sure if its castor or mineral. So, any tricks to help me work out what it is?
Pete P. 😯
one trick i use is ive brazed a piece if threaded bar abot 3/8 long to a piece of brazing wire ,and unscrew the carb nuts on to it one by one and use the same thing for putting them back verry simple way of making sure you dont drop them in the crank case
I would try burning a small amount of the oil soaked into a piece of newspaper. Castor oil has a very distinctive sickly sweet smell when burnt.