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I have tried all morning to get ti to run and have had a few fires and one 2 second burst of running,then the kickstarter spring broke!
thank god the latest yowl has arrived to keep me sane!
I’ve been following this saga with both admiration and for myself mounting apprehension; its got me to the point now where I don’t go into my front room anymore ‘tis where my Scott kit lurks!
Casting my mind back something like 40 years I recall that there was a cold process on the market that “stitched” broken castings back together with what I can only described as “orange box nails”, if you’ve never seen them these “nails” take the form of a wavy steel, “corrugated iron” strip.
The example I saw was a water-cooled iron automobile block that had burst due to freezing. The repair was claimed to be as or nearly as strong as the original casting and completely water and gas tight. So impressed was I with what I examined at the time that I filed away an advertising cutting from a motoring magazine of the time, it probably still exists but finding it after all this time would probably take longer than hacking a new crankcase out of the solid by hand…!
The question is does anyone else remember the process and further is it known if anyone still offers such a service? Araldite and plastic putty clearly do work but without chemical cleaning of the area needing attention I’m not sure how much long term faith I’d put in such a repair. Particularly as I have found some sort of semi-hard muck adhering to the crankcase casting that came with the above-mentioned front room lurking kit.
A company who do cold stitching is Surelock. They repaired the frost damaged block on my 2 Speeder by stitching in a piece about 2″ x 1 1/2″into the back of the block, not cheap but it worked and as there was no distortion I could use the original pistons.
I find that Scotts can often be difficult to start after an engine rebuild, I think they are so dry that the crankcase suction is poor. I find that a bump down a slope saves a lot of effort and preserves the kickstart. It also allows one to juggle with the controls in order to get the engine to fire.
Not sure if this helps, but when I started my machine after a rebuild I was concerned about lubrication so I filled the crankcase wells with oil, and the Pilgrim pump which I also turned upto ensure good flow of oil i.e. I made sure that there was plenty of oil to give good lubrication of the cylinders and hence compression.
I could not get mine to start as I had the leads the wrong way round (it fired first time I put them the right way round and on the second kick ran well), but from your description I assume that the leads are OK as it is firing up and running a couple of seconds.
I make sure that the carb is well flooded and the choke is nearly fully closed (not quite 100%) so that there is plenty of petrol going in. The fuel needs to be pretty rich to start form cold.
Also, you need to make sure that petrol is continuing to flow in once you have the machine running for the first couple of seconds – my throttle is set up such that the engine dies unless I turn the throttle a small amount. Hence if I kick it over with a flooded carb but throttle closed it fires but then dies. However, do not over open the throttle as this also causes it to die from a too lean a mixture. I would also suggest checking the timing again.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
I must say a big thankyou to Gill Swan for sending me a kickstart spring last week,most unexpected and a pleasant surprise,only problem now is working out how to fit/compress it!
Keep at it Dan ! With all your trials and tribulations you will no doubt eventually be amongst the “next generation” Scott guru’s, so stay on the learning curve …it’s all worthwhile. Regards Peter.