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Just fitting new cables to the 1930 two speeder following fitting new handlebars that needed longer cables.
No sweat normally but the front brake cable is a cable that becomes a rod at the lower end and within a bracing tube. I think this is a popular conversion Glynn Chambers advocates.
I can send photos if anybody likes.
I thought to unsolder the joint but the thing is odd. Does not look crimped or soldered. Anybody any ideas please.
Thanks and see you all at the Banbury…I got an entry again!!
There is a similar cable-to-rod assembly on vintage Flyers and TT Replicas, and I have seen various different ways of attaching the two mediums together, depending on whether the rod is 1/4″ or 5/16″ diameter. One method is where the end of the rod is drilled and tapped vertically, and a threaded, hollow brass sleeve is soldered onto the end of the cable. Obviously this then screws into the top end of the rod. (USE LOCTITE !!)
Another method is to solder the cable directly into the rod. These usually have a pointed, small diameter grub-screw in the side of the rod to splay out the cable and help retain it in the rod. You MUST use ‘Tinmans’ hard solder, not electrician’s soft solder or silver solder.
The drawback to both methods is the weakening of the end of the rod by either the larger diameter hole necessary to accept the threaded brass ferrule, or the hole in the side for the grub-screw, but I have never heard of one failing….
DISCUSS !
Brian
Thanks for you comments Brian,
I am currently away from home but the rod I think is 3/16 or even 1/8 ! barely larger than the cable!
I will take some dimensions and post a picture in a few days. I wondered if it was from a car handbrake adapted, I think Ive seen something similar but larger in this arena.
Have collapsed sewer in front garden ( my responsibility) and 2-3 weeks of excavation destroring walls and paths in the next few days….all I did was go in the workshop for a little light relief!!
I use 1/4 mild steel rod threaded 1/4 x 26tpi cable attachment is 3/8 square brass taped 1/4 x26 in one end cross drilled 1/8 other end drilled cable dia beyond cross hole tin cable as Brian says with tinmans solder insert cable to full depth heat brass until solder flows allow to cool use a piece of rod in the vice slightly under 1/8suport brass with rod in one side use another piece of rod with rounded end as a punch in the other side ( uppermost) a sharp tap will flatten the cable fill both sides of cross hole with solder . I have never had one fail . it took more time to type this than it takes to do the job, that’s if you type as slowly as I. Regards D F . P S USE A NUT TO LOCK ROD INTO BRASS THINGY.