Two speeder front hub: some questions on disassembly

[Erik]

Hi all,

While preparing my two speeder for Abbotsholme (better start early!) I discovered that my front wheel had a slight wobble. So I decided to take it to pieces and maybe turn the tyre a bit to get the wobble out. With the tyre removed I found that the tube was already patched 3 (!) times! Not very reasuring on those high presure beaded edge tyres! So I will definitly fit a new (reinforced) tube and check the rear wheel too.

When turning the bare wheel I found a very clear heavy point allthough the cups and cones were only slightly tracked. I also knew that the brakedrum side was spoked wrong (all spokes are bend at the nipples).

I would like to convert the hub to normal rollerbearings. That also means relacing the wheel, a job I might tackle myself this time as I always wanted to try to have a go at this “mythical art”.

Now my question… in the book of the Scott are the images below of the front hub. In order to get the cups and cones out I would have to remove the dustcaps first (no. 71 and 53). On the drawings and in the spareslist this parts are shown as seperate parts.

But, looking at my hub this caps do not seem to be removable. In fact they are not visible at all and seem to form one piece with the rest of the hub.

Looking closely there are some differences with the drawing. In the drawing the the drum seems to be rivited as well as screwed to the hub. My drum is only rivited.

Although it looks like there is a round seam but when looking closely it very much looks like one piece.

If anyone has any idea on how to remove the cups please tell me! I have tried tapping each cup out from the opposite side but with no effect.

Edit: one additional question: my Scott now has black painted spokes. What would be original for my Scott (1923 Squirrel)? Going over my picture collection I see about as much Scotts with black spokes as with nickel (or stainless that looks like nickel) spokes… Any idea?

Regards,
Erik

[Erik]

No one any idea on hub disassembly or spokes finish?

[efr215]

I have to admit I’ve never been inside one of these hubs but if no-one else is going to have their two pennyworth . . .

As good as they are it’s hard to tell from the pictures what is going on, do the drawings and the photos exactly match for example? Sadly there’s no substitute for “hands on” and the Mk.1 eyeball!

Two possibilities exist depending on the materials and facilities to hand. A tool with an expanding end that can be inserted past the opposing cup’s bore and used with a press should work or, and in some ways more attractive, a lipped draw tool that can be expanded behind the cup and pulled with a draw bolt. The attraction here is that if the draw-bolt is made with a tapered head that is pulled into the expanding “jaws” then it would prevent slipping and no press is needed. Either way it is a lot of work to be sure no damage is done.

Are you really sure you want them out?

[Erik]

Thanks for you input efr215!

I do not know if the drawing exactly matches my hub. Scott seemed to use whatever was available… But on the other hand my brake/hub looks ver original compared to pictures of other Scotts. The staggering performance at least is as described everywhere…. ;o)

The cups should be removable by “gently tapping from behind” but when the dustcaps are not removable as it seems you can leave out the “gently” I guess….

I will have another look tonight…

Cheers,
Erik

[efr215]

Hi Erik,

I rather think that removing the dust shields and pulling the cups might best be considered as one operation.

“Tapping gently”. Yeh right!!! OK until Professor Sodd sticks his oar in! It might well have worked when the hub was a lot newer but you are dealing with an old bit of kit so all sorts of gremlins might be in residence by now!

The most important thing is to pull straight and spread the load as much as possible hence suggesting a special puller. Spreading the load will be a nice exercise in balancing the size of the lips and the spaces between them so that they will pass through the hole. If you do decide to make a puller consider putting a square or hexagon on the threaded end so that you have some means of stopping the bolt turning with the nut. Also consider using something tougher than ordinary steel for the lips just in case it is all very tight. If it proves very tight consider introducing a ball thrust bearing under the nut to reduce the friction, it can make a huge difference and less effort means more control.

I have a good CAD package so I could do you a drawing given a few dimensions if that’ll help.

[Erik]

Well, a bit off topic perhaps but when we are talking pullers anyway… the last one I made was

A: very ugly
B: not very strong

and

C: worked absolutely fine!

I pulled the bearingrace of my fork nicely so a new stem could be fitted.

[Eddie Shermer]

If i knew how to paste images in this forum I would show you a much uglier puller that I just used to pull the dust caps off ’30’s wheel.

Eddie

[efr215]

Where there’s a will there’s always a way!
I’ve always liked those “G” clamps, they work well don’t they?

[Author]

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