HOME and how to join › Forum › Open Area › General Scott topics › Zener Diode on Brums
To my knowledge, the last two Brum Scotts were OMV8K, registered in 1971, and WDO408L, registered in 1972, both assembled by Ted Murphy from kits of parts supplied by Matt Holder. I owned WDO408L for several years, and I can assure the doubters that both machines were SIX VOLT Miller alternator systems, with no heat-sink diode fitted or needed. (There was in fact a single bike made in 1978, but it was only loosely assembled, and was short of some components that were out of stock. I have a photo of it somewhere, and it is perhaps best forgotten…)
Brian
@dave bushell wrote:
Material cost is cheaper when using 12v as compared with 6v as current flow is half that of the 6v system and this means there is less voltage drop over a given length of cable arriving at it’s destination, I.e. the headlamp bulb. On a 6v system, this voltage drop can be reduced by using a heavier (and more expensive) cable. Thus when you’re manufacturing thousands/millions of vehicles, there’s quite a material cost savings with 12v
Dave
I agree when I designed my wiring harness using the Scott and Miller drawings I upgraded the wiring sizes. That became a small issue with routing as the harness became thicker. However it works real well.
I decided to go down the 12 volt path because the alternator on my bike was a mess. Broken spring washers inside the unit had caused the rotor to poll severely on the stator and the windings were torn to bits. I also purchased a negative to earth Bridge rectifier and Zenor Diode. There will be modifications to my wiring system but I will still be using a 6 position switch. I have a Classic Japanese enduro bike that I restored which has a 6 volt system. With a new voltage regulator it sill continued to produce to much charge for the headlight bulb to handle. We fitted, I think from memory a 1 ohm resistor in the circuit and the problem was rectified. The bike (Brum) shown is not mine, but I think the diode has been mounted underneath the bottom triple clamp. The diode will get warm but I don’t think it will be enough to cause a problem with the radiator. KP
I would have thought a 12volt battery as opposed to a 6volt one would cost more than 3 metres of thicker wire.
I would say that a 12 v system is a bit more efficient because it is using less amps in the system (ohms law) ,and also less susceptible to losses in the system due bad connections , poor wiring etc.
The better and efficient way to stabilise the power in a 12v system is to use a solid state rectifier/regulator which would simplify the circuitry on the machine . The zener diode method just turns the excess power into heat energy , it’s crude ,simple but also more expensive !
Here is the type of unit I would suggest, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-12-VOLT-AC-ROYAL-ENFIELD-Bullet-Swiss-145377-/331591665948?hash=item4d3467491c:g:mcoAAOSw3ydVjWj7
One unit which does away with selenium wafer diode packs, heat sinks , zener diodes, and associated wiring
heres my exploded view of the original Miller and the 6 volt Lucas RM19 replacement alternator along with bearings and seals. I tried to find the least powerful three wire alternator to keep the loads on the flimsy drive to a minimum .
Two of the many advantages of a 12V conversion is the ability to buy replacement bulbs everywhere plus a greater choice of (cheaper) batteries. 😀
Your right Barrie. I went the antiquated way so that it looked akin to the period it was made in. KP