Hello again fellow forum readers and contributors. My head/cylinder is still doing a terrific impression of one lump of infinitely inseperable metal. Firm in it’s resolve to make my life as short and miserable as possible.
I am not too comfortable in the welding solution for fear of ending up with a bigger lump of trouble. Mig welding is the extent of my talent in that area. Cutting through all the studs seems reasonable but still have the problem of drilling out studs from cylinder and pressing out studs from head as well as copper water pipe renewal. Then of course having someone ship over new studs etc. I have tried attacking each stud individually to loosen with two nuts but studs are terrified of leaving their appointed holes. I have tried a terrific solution that cleans things up very well but cannot get at the aluminum oxide. Frees up a lot of corroded material ,stuck rings etc., but not this. At present it is in the hands of a gentleman specializing in ultrasonic cleaning. I have doubts about this method but have run out of most options I am comfortable with. I forsee in the not too distant future, me packaging it up and sending the *&?%$ thing back where it came from. To someone with a lot more knowledge and experience in these matters. Are you there Mr. Moss. I am in no hurry as the riding season is quickly coming to an end.
Thank you all for your input and suggestions. Very kind.
Thanks for the imput fellows, I have tried the heat to no avail so have decided to remove barrels as well. Will give me a chance to check on other parts of the bike and paint barrels as well. I am assuming I have to remove the alternator housing from the near side and only distributor from off side. Seems to be no other way to get at the 4 bolts holding the barrels. Will keep you posted on progress or lack thereof.
Thanks for all the great help. With the wiring diagrams and photos I will have no problem in sorting out the brake switch and horn. Am now trying to get the cylinder head off in preparation of arrival of new head gasket. Pretty sticky but will gently work at it. Has anyone tried the light rope in the cylinder bore through the sparkplug hole trick on the Scott. Good compression and kicking it over does not want to free it up.
Thanks chaps for the info on the bolt in lieu of the drain tap. I had thought of doing that but wanted to keep it original if possible. Now I learn the bolt is in fact original. Would anyone know the thread type necessary ? Also are parts books available or an owner’s manual. My understanding is that there never was an owner’s manual even when purchased new. I find that quite odd. Weird even. Whatever the case many thanks once again for the input.
Thanks Eric and Roger for the prompt reply. My apologies to Gill regarding gender confusion. I am not sure Roger if the SOC has the spares in question or not. I was just informed that there could be no shipping to USA (or Canada I assume). Scott motorbikes are very thin on the ground over here as you can imagine, spares and information even less so. If need be I suppose I can make up a gasket from locally sourced supplies and drill and tap for the drain valve,or simply solder it closed. Thanks again for the replies.
Many thanks for the replies to my query on tool boxes for my Brum. Info and photos from Roy and Colin are terrific and hopefully I can find adequate items now I know what I am loking for. Great forum. Excellent source of info, especially for someone who lives where these are extremely thin on the ground. There is a 1947 relatively close by that I will investigate.
thank you again everyone for your terrific imput regarding lubrication of my 59 Scott. As to Ted’s info on Bruce Mainsmith’s Handbook for postwar Shipley models, can anyone direct me as to acquiring said handbook. Eventually , given enough time and patience from fellow Scott owners and enthusiasts I too will come into the light, as it were. I think it was the day before I acquired the Scott that I missed that appointment to have my head read. Kidding of course.
Thank you Jan and EFR for the prompt replies. The solution is becoming clearer now through my muddled mind. Will take all under advisement with I am sure satisfactory results. The idea of changing transmission fluid has been on my mind but I have no idea what grade of oil to use in the transmission or for that matter how much. I can’t seem to see a drain hole although there is a large inspection plate that conveniently comes away and I think a filler hole fore and aft of that. Just having a tough time getting basic information on the Birmingham models as apparently there was no manual distributed during their production. Therefore I again humbly ask for direction through the maze I have recently and gladly acquired.
Thanks everyone for the replies re: my newly acquired Scott. I have sourced a horn for it and a radiator and will continue searching info on the Birmingham models. Now if I can just find a 2 speeder. Haha. I will try and let you know of progress when radiator arrives and is installed. Great model.