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Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • in reply to: Pilgrim Pump reduction drive #34249
    cantilever
    Participant

    I’m sure I’ve seen drawings of the reduction drive in the Pilgrim Pump section of Scott Technicalities.

    in reply to: Misfiring #34248
    cantilever
    Participant

    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Hi Steve, My 35 Flyer also tends to pop/bang in the silencer, although it’s not as bad as it was.</p>
    I understand the cause is unburnt fuel in the exhaust being ignited by burning gases exiting the cylinder. Its not necessarily a misfire although it could be.

    One change I’ve done that helped is to separate the HT leads.  Mine were cable tied together and I think the leads were cross firing – one lead inducing a spark in the other when it’s piston is at BDC.

    Another frequent cause is air leaks and Scott engines are VERY prone to them. I’ve had so many air leaks that I’ve made a leak test rig to find them.

    Hope this helps.

    Ron

    in reply to: detachable head #32466
    cantilever
    Participant

    Hi, I refitted my long stroke head a few weeks ago and used blue Hylomar sealant on the copper gasket. The motor has done 70 miles and the head isn’t leaking. I’ve read that the head will need to be retightened several times, as the composite gasket settles a lot. To be honest, I used feel to pull the head down, taking care to tighten it slowly, from the centre outwards, going diagonally from side to side. I also put sealant on the studs into the barrel and many recommend copper slip on the studs to prevent corrosion. The main problem with the studs is galvanic corrosion.

    in reply to: Nuts at bottom of the engine #32401
    cantilever
    Participant

    Hi Tom, Both drain pugs should have a sealing washer. Mine’s fitted with fibre washers and they need to be tightened carefully or the fibre washer will split. But they don’t leak.

    in reply to: Best oil for 1938 flying squirrel #32121
    cantilever
    Participant

    I’m going to use Millers Pistoneze for running in, then probably change to a good quality semi synthetic.

    in reply to: Best oil for 1938 flying squirrel #32120
    cantilever
    Participant

    The previous owner of my Flyer ran Silkolene Comp 2 through a reduction drive Pilgrim Pump and the engine has suffered major little end failure to both cylinders.

    I can’t say the oil is the cause… but Ive read somewhere that fully synthetic oils aren’t good for bronze bush little ends.

    in reply to: Clutch grabbing #31454
    cantilever
    Participant

    Thanks Chris.

    The problem now is that I don’t know which type of friction material is fitted, as I’ve only had the bike 3 weeks.

    I think it’s probably Cork as the grabbing has got more severe as I’ve used the Scott.

    I’ll have a look through the documents the bike came with to see if there’s any reference to clutch purchases.

    in reply to: Clutch grabbing #31441
    cantilever
    Participant

    I think mine has had new corks fitted recently by the previous owner but I’ve not had it apart.

    I did wonder about giving it a dribble of oil but I have no experience of dry clutches and don’t want to ruin it. However it must get fairly oily where its located.

    in reply to: Scott Gathering #29812
    cantilever
    Participant

    Nice photo.
    EXL826 is now on a Lotus. (for obvious reasons)
    FKK106 and EY9141 can’t be found.
    However, it looks like KLT524 is back in use, after being registered in September 2003 as a 1949 600cc, so I’m sure the owner would be interested.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)