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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 30 total)
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  • in reply to: Tightening down the old dome type water jacket head #15990
    Graham
    Participant

    When I was faced with this problem, I finished up making custom ferrules to give the correct clearance with just one gasket. Two or more gaskets never worked for me.

    in reply to: ‘Bonniksen Time and Speed Meter’ #11654
    Graham
    Participant

    Try ‘Bonniksen Boy’ website. Was very helpful too me….

    in reply to: Wont start when hot. #10429
    Graham
    Participant

    I recently suffered similar problems. My bike stands for long periods between use.
    Traced to incorrect mixture due to partial pilot jet blockage. Would start OK when cold, due to flooding carb. Drove OK and ticked over when hot but embarassing to restart.
    After a good carburettor cleanout seems OK.

    in reply to: So! Has the AGM decided to close the open Forum? Yes or No! #9900
    Graham
    Participant

    I suppose that this is a logical next step, following the club’s refusal to supply spare parts to North American members…. I await with interest what follows….

    in reply to: New Year present #9021
    Graham
    Participant

    I too have a belt driven Southbend of 5″ capacity, from 1947.

    With 6″ chucks and 5C collets it is very versatile, and quiet in operation.

    Accessories and spares still frequently turn up on Ebay at reasonable prices. Mine is running off a single phase 240v motor so I can only manage 1/8″ cuts …….

    Do not get too paramoid about bed wear as there is bound to be some, its more important to spend time setting the bed up carefully so that it cuts parallel.

    Graham
    1929 2 speed Sports.

    in reply to: Info on 1929 2 speed Scott #8918
    Graham
    Participant

    My bike’s registration is UT5377, also a 1929 2 speed Scott .

    A distant cousin?

    Graham in Arkansas

    in reply to: Best oil for bottom end #8882
    Graham
    Participant

    I have the same experience as Erik. My gravity fed drippers pass very little oil until the engine has been running a few minutes. I frequently check the oil wells after a run, to make sure the engine is getting a good supply and they are holding a good reserve for the next start up.

    Additional question. The outlets of the Best & Lloyd drippers are designed to have a non return valve in the outlet union, a flat disk with light spring. These are omitted on mine and I have not tried fitting them. Does anyone have any experience with them?

    Graham
    1929 Sports in Arkansas.

    in reply to: If you had to name one bad point on a Scott that would be… #8870
    Graham
    Participant

    Back to Erik’s original topic, in order to tighten the clamp on the top radiator hose of my 1929 Sports, I have to remove the radiator so:
    Start by removing the plugs (easy part).
    To remove the radiator bolts must remove the tank.
    To remove the tank, remove the seat and rear sub frame as tank is wrapped around the seat downtube.
    To remove the rear subframe, remove the battery carrier, rear chainguard, and rear carrier.
    To remove the rear carrier, remove the rear number plate….

    Reassemble in the reverse order.

    I have done this twice now and cannot see a simpler way. Removing the front fork and wheel assembly would be an alternative but just as convoluted.

    in reply to: 2 speed gear question #8390
    Graham
    Participant

    I agree with Erik. I use non detergent 30 oil in the tank ( for 2 sp gear and engine) and a small amount of 2 stroke oil in the petrol. If you get a screeching noise as you engage 2nd gear, your shaft is probably moving sideways. There are spacer washers inside the gear. A good time to take a look inside.

    in reply to: Wiring Diagram #8314
    Graham
    Participant

    The wiring diagram for the 1930 Scott has an error. The battery is connected to ground through the ammeter and voltage coil, bypassing the cutout and current coil, so the cutout would be held permanently energised. The voltage coil which is shown going to the + should instead go to the positive brush.

    in reply to: 2 speeder starter chain adjustment #8245
    Graham
    Participant

    I have a 600cc engine, and since I am not a big guy I find that I can stand on the kickstart and the engine does not go over compression. The half compression valves do work for me.

    For those that do not use the half-compression valves, what do you do with the left hand and lever?

    Graham

    in reply to: 2 speeder starter chain adjustment #8241
    Graham
    Participant

    Not mentioned so far is using the traction control mechanism (half-compression lever) to ease kick starting on a 2-speed Scott.

    Graham

    in reply to: mag chain wanted #8222
    Graham
    Participant

    I also have been successfully using BMX bike chain, KHE, made in Germany. I bought it from a bike shop. It has straight links on outer side, for extra strength, and so can only be used one way round. visit http://www.KHEbikes.com

    Graham

    in reply to: Looking for a decent front brake for my two speeder #8097
    Graham
    Participant

    Erik,

    When I got my 1929 Sports, with 7″ front brake, the front brake anchor plate had at some time come adrift and been twisted. It had been straightened out.

    I thought this was scary, so made a new achor plate, with a keyhole for location instead of the slot at the top. I think you are correct in thinking that the brake twists the forks under heavy application, and then the anchor pops out of its location and you are flying……

    I have mine adjusted so that I can pull the lever right in to the handlebar, so that in an emergency I will not act quicker than I can think. I also consiously use the rear brake as the main stopper, and help it with the front. I have not yet had to test my ideas in an emergency…..

    in reply to: Two speeder engine work: several questions #7971
    Graham
    Participant

    Erik, I suspect the ferrules as being the area where water is leaking, entering the cylinder and seeping down the cylinder wall and out the exhaust. I ended up making new ferrules, specifically to suit my engine, to cure a very similar problem. If one of your ferrules unscrewed when a plug was removed, it was not really fitted properly.

    Interesting that Roger recommends using silicone to seal the water dome. I finished up using cork gaskets as the most successful, the cork being about twice as thick as the club supplied ones. The cork was purchased from an Auto Supply store.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 30 total)