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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 30 total)
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  • in reply to: Bar end Mirror conversion – Inverted lever #7569
    Graham
    Participant

    I made up a rear view mirror for my Scott with inverted levers.

    The mirror was bought from JP Cycles (http://www.jpcycles.com) part number 7600145 at a cost of $9.00. They also have an amazing amount of wierd stuff for Harleys.

    I will email you pictures of how it is mounted if you care to email me.(sgp@ipa.net).

    Why is it so convoluted to post pictures here?…. Graham

    in reply to: Two speeder kickstarter revisited #7211
    Graham
    Participant

    Erik,
    From your picture I would say that the kickstart mechanism is in good shape. That leaves other options, like the spark plugs. I am using NGK A-6.

    Also if the spark plug points are partly hidden by being very recessed starting will be more difficult.

    If the bike runs well and ticks over I doubt the magneto is the problem…… Graham

    in reply to: Two speeder kickstarter revisited #7209
    Graham
    Participant

    Erik,

    If the kickstart lever, shaft or cotter pin are badly worn the kickstart lever will lose travel. I had to weld my shaft up to get the kickstart lever to the correct starting angle, about 70 degrees past vertical. Now I usually have first kick starting if the engine is warm. I do use the half compression valves for starting as for me the kickstart is not well placed at the back wheel. Also retard the ignition for starting. The half compression valves are part of the engine and in my opinion should be left intact. They should not leak if there is clearance between the valves and the operating lever at rest. They can easily be screwed in or out for maintenance with a simple tool made from a piece of steel tubing.

    in reply to: Two speeder kickstarter revisited #7204
    Graham
    Participant

    Eric, As I undersand the problem with your kickstarter, just as you commence a kickstart you are comming onto the ramp, which pushes your ratchet out of mesh. At the commencement of the stroke, you should be comming off the ramp. This suggests that your chain/rod combination is too long. … Graham

    in reply to: Two speeder kickstarter revisited #7200
    Graham
    Participant

    Erik, I just had a look at my kick starter machanism and am now sure that yours is meerly assembled/adjusted wrongly.

    Looking at the ratchet drum, and using the spring attachment screw as a pointer I have the following:

    When assembled for use:

    at rest the screw is at 7 o’clock.
    ratchet engages with the screw at 10 o’clock.
    at end of kickstart stroke, ratchet just starts to disengage, with screw at 5 o’clock.

    with chain disconnected, the ratchet is fully released when screw is at 6 o’clock.

    My chain is 11.5 full links in length. A wrong length chain could position the ratchet drum wrongly. Your rod may also be a different length to mine.

    Changing the chain length to get correct operation is probably the best place to start. When you have recovered from the Xmas celebrations, try that and see where it leads……. Graham

    in reply to: Two speeder kickstarter revisited #7198
    Graham
    Participant

    Now you are on the right track…. However, I don’t think the return spring has anything to do with your problem. A spring just pushes or pulls. Its the positions of the ramps and stops which matter…. I will look at mine and see if I can pass on some help…… Graham

    in reply to: Speedometer for my Scott…. #7134
    Graham
    Participant

    Thanks…. I have sent an email to Ron Farthing to see if he can help……

    in reply to: How to dismantle two-speeder forks ? #7121
    Graham
    Participant

    Since you have removed the front mudguard, it is worth considering first removing the lower spring retaining cap, rather than the top one.
    It is very easy to chip the paint around the cap and this will show less at the bottom. Also, the lower legs give something to attach one end of the ‘coathanger’ to….

    in reply to: How to dismantle two-speeder forks ? #7119
    Graham
    Participant

    A small point. Some of he balls of the top bearing will be quite keen to roll down inside the top frame tube, if they get a chance. It happened to me.
    Graham 1929 2-speed ‘Sports’.

    in reply to: Pre 1915 Scott: Suitable for two persons ? #7008
    Graham
    Participant

    I imagine the problems faced would be:
    a) Fitting pillion rests with the kickstart at the rear wheel. One picture in The Scott Selection shows a wicker pillion seat set for side saddle use.
    b) the high first gear for getting going from rest with a passenger on the back, probably easier to play with a sidecar attached.

    in reply to: Two speed kickstarter slipping very badly #7011
    Graham
    Participant

    I bought my 2 speed Scott about 7 months ago. At first it had lots of niggling little problems, more than you have, but by tackling them one at a time it now runs nicely and the water does not boil, the 2 speed gear does not leave an oil slick and the kickstarter ratchet never slips.

    Please take the time to find out just how the kick starter works, and exactly what is going on, rather than trying to fix it…. The ratchet should immediately drop into full engagement, not occasionally catch. Putting it up on the rear stand, resting the spark plugs on the engine to earth them and then operating the starter by hand should show exactly what is happening. The solution will then be apparent.

    I have found that the 2 speed gear needs very little oil, gradully reduce the supply each time you go out. I drive at least 5 miles before operating the pump and switch the supply off before the end of the journey.

    The water spray is probably due to a leak in the system, likely at a hose joint, first losing water followed by the boiling. Excess water should exit by the overflow, not from the radiator cap so the overflow pipe may be blocked…….

    Graham

    in reply to: Aluminium corrosion in water spaces #6800
    Graham
    Participant

    Interesting. Could you please expand this topic to cover effects on the brass and solder used in radiators? This really means, will the magnesium prevent the gradual disintegration of the zinc alloyed in?

    in reply to: Wiring Diagram or Picture #6531
    Graham
    Participant

    On the June 12 1968 wiring diagram circa 1930, in technicalities, the dynamo internal wiring is wrong. As drawn, the cutout relay would always be energised, if a battery is connected.

    in reply to: 3 bush dynamo help #6481
    Graham
    Participant

    I do not know of your model, but guess that it has the 3rd brush earthed. It will only give an output if rotated in the designed direction.
    Before stripping it, remove the 3rd brush and see if it produces voltage output. Without the 3rd brush it should give an output when rotated in either direction.
    Do not have any lights connected, or you may blow them. The dynamo will be unregulated and it should produce about 18 volts without the third brush.

    in reply to: 3 bush dynamo help #6479
    Graham
    Participant

    There are two styles of 3 brush dynamo, early fixed 3rd brush and the later adjustable 3rd brush type. You can adjust output with the moveable 3rd brush style.

    Check out https://www.bolsover.com/lucas/index.htm for good information on testing generators.

    You can opt to discard the third brush and run the dynamo with a modern electronic field control.
    Look in https://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm for more details.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 30 total)