Slightly off the main subject but, following my Dad’s instructions, I always stopped my Scott by choking the carb. with my gloved hand which left a rich mixture in the crankcases and which usually provided a rapid start next time. Is this procedure followed today?
Many thanks for the ‘photos, most enjoyable.
May I suggest that you have the ‘photos scanned and enhanced, especially the first image posted. The results are very rewarding.
It is beginning to seem a long time ago since I last re-assembled the engine of my Scott, AKA ‘Scruffy’, on the kitchen table at my late Father-in-Law’s house at some time during 1955!
Regards to you all.
The Bonhams (auctioneers) site has, or had, a detailed history.
Thanks to the Internet and this Forum, I have been promised that after a period of 51 years, I may in due course, once again sit astride what was my 1930 3 speed Flyer.
In 1953, my late Father, a Scott ownner at that time, purchased VR **** for me from Slocombe’s of Neasden the price being £35.00.
When I saw the pictures, ‘Scruffy’ looked vaguely familiar. A PM to ‘bitsa1927’ confirmed that it was indeed my old bike.
The picture shows yours truly on the Flyer in 1953, the bike as it was when purchased.
Regards to you all,
I am no radiator expert but I believe that there are variations in the cooling surface area of the ‘waffle’ type radiator cores.
When your 2-speeder had it’s rad. re-cored, perhaps the incorrect core was used and hence it had insufficient cooling from day one.
In happy memory of my first motorcycle in 1951, a 1930 3 speed ‘Flyer’, perhaps you may consider trying my method of dealing with minor leaks on a ‘Scott’ radiator.
Provided you have the patience to get the rad. absolutely dry on the inside by gentle external heating with hot air or similar, and provided that the leaks are at the soldered ends of the honeycomb tubes, try ‘Araldite’.
Note where the leaks occur, heat the rad. in this area until just too hot to touch and, using a matchstick or similar, apply the ‘Araldite’ which will liquify and be drawn into the porous solder and limescale. If the working area is kept hot for a few minutes, the ‘Araldite’ will ‘gell’ and begin to set. If care is taken, the repairs will be almost invisible.
Use the normal slow setting ‘Araldite’ which, after mixing, will remain usable for at least one hour. ‘Araldite’ will easily cope with the working conditions of a ‘Scott’ radiator.
I quote from a letter from Geoff Milnes dated 25th September 1964 which is my possesion:
‘The 1928 Scott Flying Squirrel had purple panels on the petrol tank’
I hope that the above may be of some assistance.