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Any help with the following would be greatly appreciated. The two front brake return springs on my rebuild are having a hard time pulling the bowden cable taut. Should the brake compensator have a return spring built into it also. I know the brake system can have 2 cables from the one leaver, but I would like bike returned to the original condition.
The most important thing is to free up and lubricate all three cables to make the whole system as frictionless as possible, as for an extra spring in the splitter , I have no idea
There is NO spring in the “splitter” /compensator box.
Dave
Cheers Dave
Thanks for your response. As I am using a internally lined Bowden cable,(it is the only kind I can get), I have not used a lubrication. I will try the old “hot grease” method and let you know the results. Thanks again.
I meant to mention that a spring of .312 Dia. x 1.250 Lg. could be fitted between the cable adjuster and the pulley bracket. There is sufficient room inside the Splitter. Thanks for the correct terminology.
Harry,
Are you sure all is OK with the brake shoes and the springs inside the drums and the run of your cables ?
I ask because have two late Shipley Scotts with twin drum front brakes and the ‘Splitter Box’ fitted and neither of these has any
trouble returning the shoes and pulling the cable taught without any extra springs being fitted.
Mark
If you are using a modern lined bowden cable it doesn’t need any extra lubrication except a light silicon oil, don’t give it the hot grease. I’m pretty sure about this but there may be someone better informed here 🙂
Yep, I’ve always understood that lubing nylon-lined cables makes the inner lining sticky hence making the situation worse.
My ’48 doesn’t have the compensator but a double pull lever instead. It is generally claimed that the brakes are better without the compensator. The front brake on mine is poor and is in A1 condition even with new linings 😥 Thus, its worth spending time to make sure that your cables and shoes are completely 100%!
Keith
My ’47 still has the compensator assembly + new linings from Saftek. Happy to report it works a treat!
My linings are also from Saftek but made no difference to mine. I even turned them circular in the lathe to the diameter of the hub. Maybe I’m expecting too much but it would be nice if they worked half way as good as the back brake…..
Keith
My first Scott, nearly 40 years ago, was a 1950 Flyer with the double front brake and the balance box on the mudguard, with the ‘rising pulley’ thing inside it. It was a poor brake….
Thank you for all your input. It seems there is no common ground, but I’ve read before that the system is not the best. Thanks for the info regarding grease, I will hold off for now. The cable runs are quite good no sharp curves, no obstructions. I think the problem may be the brake return springs and the lever pivot, the latter item is not the best quality. Any idea of a source for springs? I intend keeping the “splitter” in the system as it was original equipment.
I think you may be over-thinking this. The system of two seven inch brakes operated by a common lever is never going to be great by 2018 standards simply by the brakes being relatively small and the “pull” being split in two, but it’s “of it’s time” and was probably thought of as being really technologically advanced back in the 1940s.
The splitter isn’t the cause of any problems (unless the pulley were to seize) nor is wear in the lever pivot, so provided the cables are suitable (ie not too lightweight) the shoes are of good quality and contact the drum uniformly etc there’s no reason why the front brake shouldn’t be perfectly useable on today’s roads.