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They are only 6″ brakes, not 7″.
Sorry for the error, but does it change anything? They’re still “small” for a drum brake.
I have to say that my ’49 Flyer with splitter box was great. Of course I had new linings but specified “soft”, it makes all the difference. The re-lining man will probably advise that they won’t last as long but he is talking about something in general use. We are mostly only doing a few hundred miles on any one Scott so longevity is immaterial. Brian’s bike 40 years ago almost certainly didn’t have the same efficient lining material as you’ll get now. I’m not saying that the splitter box couldn’t be improved on, just that it does work 🙂
I second that, mine work o.k. for what they are,
if you want to check the efficiency just go and put your machine on a brake roller at the local M O T station and I’m sure the tester would be able to advise you as to how good they are
Just look at the centrefold photo of the ’47 Flying Squirrel in the latest Yowl for the answer to your problem. After seeing that bike at Ardingly I fitted the same external springs to my ’49 model and it cured the non-returning lever issue I was experiencing. I find the front brake on my bike with the compensator to be excellent by the way, but then I’ve been riding a Sunbeam S8 for over 25 years!
Graham
Make sure you lubricate the internals of the box. My brake was poor until I greased the moving parts in the splitter box, it is now a good brake.
Geoff
My MOT man always used to wax lyrical about how good the front brake was on my 1949 bike. I certainly gave excellent readings on the roller. Having said that, so does the brake on my current 1938 Scott but on the road its awful 😥
I had similar thoughts about the front brake on my Moto Guzzi 850T, an ex-USA bike with a single front disc, and the
UK market version was the 850T3, with twin front discs. Wheeling the bike around the yard, one finger on the brake lever would stop the bike dead, and compress the forks. On the road however, it was useless, and you might as well have been squeezing a house brick ! Changing the pads brought about no improvement. Strange…
Years ago there was on the market a simple little oiling kit, a little plastic moulding and a couple of “U” clips. They may still be around but I’ve not seen any for years.
The moulding was designed to fit around the bowden cable outer after removing a small circle of the covering to reveal the wound outer cable. Once fitted the two “U” clips had to be inserted in the holes provided in each end of the moulding and then carefully crushed with a pair of pliars sufficiently to firmly grip the cable. The moulding was provided with an oil-can friendly hole that included an attached sealing plug.
If fitted near the centre of the cable run a weekly squirt of oil was all that was needed for smooth brakes and clutch.
These days some people use a hydraulic cable oiler, a nice little device, only a few quid
Yes, they’re extremely effective and very quick.