HOME and how to join › Forum › Open Area › General Scott topics › First run but not all is well.
A dumb question this may be.
But how old is the fuel, if its still left in the tank from 3 years ago it will be f**ked and give poor power.
Try Shell V-Power Nitro it does make a difference.
Just a thought.
Cheers Colin.
Thanks Barrie
I will check the sizes.
The grey then confirms what has been discussed re the 7/16 advanced setting. I am looking forward to the road test at the weekend.
Steve
Hi Colin
All questions have to be asked, you never know do you?
As it happens I am running the V power Nitro and it is about 1 month old so should be ok.
Steve
On this fuel ( urine ) that we now run on my 500 flyer is best on a 190 main jet . It may be worth a try you could check the float level also , Ihave found that lite plug colour can be caused by a weak mixture. Keep at it you will win .
Yes, a 190 main jet for a 498 long-stroke, and a 200 for a 596 long-stroke is about right for the foul rubbish we are sold as ‘petrol’. In theory there should be a good article on this subject in the next Yowl. Needle in the middle notch, and a No 3 or 3.5 slide. Primary air adjuster screwed gently fully in, then opened 1.5 turns. These should give you a good start and running, and only minor tweaks should be necessary.
Brian
Thanks for the encouragement Dripfeed.
Brian
I think I will try out the new ignition setting and then play with the carb settings, I should have some spare jets somewhere.
Going back to Bigkevs suggestion of a blocked exhaust, is there anything special about the Scott silencer or can I use any silencer, only I have a clean four stroke silencer in the shed I could try.
Steve
You should use an absorption straight through silencer as originally produced by Burgess. Pattern ones are available but can be a bit noisey depending upon who made them.
Dave
My only comment, ( I’ve just got back from holiday hence the delay), is that if you do run with the ignition say half advanced, you need to correct the timing and not run it as a permanent feature as the internal timing of the mag will be wrong. I am not a mag expert but someone put me right on this some time ago and I was very grateful.
Tony Kitching
Sorry for the delay.
I have now had a chance to test the Scott and with the adv/ret lever at the half way setting it pulled away strongly and accelerated up to 70mph with ease so there lies the answer, now how best to fix the problem, leave as is or adjust the timing?
I will keep fettling.
Steve
Depends if you have enough “leeway” in the lever.
On mine, the full range of the manual advance/retard movement is maybe 50′ on the handlebar lever (as limited by the mag itself) , so having marked full advance and full retard positions by paint strips on the lever, there’s no need for me to coincide the “max pull” on the lever with full advance on the mag. I can see where it is with a glance, not that it ever goes to full retard anyway…
My way would be to set the timing ( if a short stroke ) at5/16 at full advance if it goes well that would do for me. Regards D F .
I agree with Tony Kitching, I would retime your mag to give max advance where you want it, you will get a better spark and I believe it is better for the mag. Nice to hear your bike goes so well though.
Hi, Check the oil levels in the wells, too much oil causes a bogging effect as the revs increase.
Laurie.
@richard norris wrote:
I agree with Tony Kitching, I would retime your mag to give max advance where you want it, you will get a better spark and I believe it is better for the mag. Nice to hear your bike goes so well though.
Have I misunderstood this problem? I thought the OP meant that full advance on the mag wasn’t full advance on the handlebar lever.
Full advance on the mag should always be the optimum firing position by piston position.
Exactly. And if half advance seemed best I would leave there while I rode home, measure what it was e.g. 1/4″ BTDC and set max advance to there.