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Brum Scotts didn’t have a spitter box, only post war Shipley Scotts.
Dave
I attended the recent SOC Annual Rally with my son, Andrew (on a Harley Bobber).
We walked into the bar/ barbecue area, he took one look around and said “No fresh blood”!
It is badly needed, so your appearance on the Scott scene is most welcome!!
We wish you and your team every success and satisfaction with the project.
Mike & Andrew Fennell
Hello Mike and Andrew,
Thanks for the welcome to the fold. We’d love to come along to some of the SOC events – but had to take a raincheck on the Shuttleworth jaunt. As relative newbs on a limited budget with a bike which doesn’t yet run, it looked a little daunting – but all three of us hope to support the club and come along whenever time and funds allow.
The advice and kindness already offered on this thread alone has justified the membership fee!
Another day in the workshop, wrestling with a slightly rusty squirrel!
A Big thanks to all once again for you input, kindness and help
We removed the radiator (which was dry) – though there was still water in the engine jacket which looked clean and rust free. We plugged the rad and filled her up and didn’t see any signs of any leaks, or though there is some evidence of a bash to the front – though strangely in a position which would be BEHIND the attachment plate. Another mystery….
The rad also has a ding to the chrome. Again, guessing this is cosmetic rather than a functional issue. Whether and what options we look at as a possible fix may largely depend upon time and budget. As its my Mum and Dads 50th wedding anniversary September ’17, we want to get her up and running so he can arrive at the venue in style (or at least a plum of two-stroke smoke 😉 )
Here’s a shot of the ding to the side of the rad
Oh, and I’d not made a note of the engine number before; Here it is!
That’s a pre-war “honeycomb” radiator that you have there, typical on vintage Scotts – more valuable than the post-war finned core radiators. The damage should not affect performance – fingers crossed that it is not choked with Radweld! – but stick to gentle flushing at the moment, as “serious” cleaning could uncover hidden blind leak points. I may be able to help you with a blank domed pressing to tidy up the appearance of the top tank.
Hi, The damage to the radiator core behind the attachment plate looks to be in line with the bolt head securing the plate to the frame, so it has probably been wrongly assembled at some time with a bolt that has a deep head. The bolts holding the plate to the frame should have VERY shallow heads, no more than 1/8″ deep. Also make sure to use new rubber washers when you remount the radiator, and don’t overtighten the through-bolts. Just tighten the nuts to the point where you can’t turn the rubber washers and their cup washers by hand, no tighter than that. Recheck the tightness after the bike has been ‘commissioned’ and done a few hundred miles, as they will ‘bed in’ from the heat. Good luck with your project !
Brian
Thanks all of you once again. It really is fantastic to have so many wiser older heads watching over our project to give advice and a steer in the right direction every so often 😀
In the bundle of bits of paperwork (which includes some early log books and tax disks) which came with her, there were a couple of photos which show her in the 70s / early 80’s before she lived on the Isle of Mann (and with the ‘MAN’ registration currently painted on her plates)
A view from the other side (I have a feeling these may have been photos which were used during one of her changes of hands)
And here’s a picture of what started this all of – Pa’s bike, a photo taken somewhere around 1962 in the days when he was an early member of the Saltbox MCC. He thinks this was taken outside a cafe on his way down to Cornwall. As you can see, a rather beaten about but much loved photo. Of the various bikes he owned up until about 1972, he said the Scott was always his favourite.
Toby, if you need a replacement Lycett fully sprung dual seat like the one in the photo, I have an unused old stock one in perfect condition. Perhaps the last one in the known universe ! £150 plus P&P. Send me a PM if you are interested.
Brian
How interesting Toby that your Scott was fitted with a rear stand, normally associated with earlier Scotts – in the photos it is clipped up under the back number plate, with a “modern” side stand in use. The ‘norm’ was a centrally positioned stand underneath the back end of the gearbox which had a side foot peg to allow foot pressure to assist the rider to rock & pull the bike back on to it’s stand – excellent stand on a firm surface, but unstable on grass or other soft ground, as I learned on my 1947 Flyer. Your Dad’s original Scott has such a stand. Your stand may be original, the Scott works was keen to secure all orders to customer specs.! Most 1947 onwards Scotts had a wide rear two piece mudguard, which had a rear quarter which could be removed to facilitate removal of the rear wheel backwards from a machine with little ground clearance on the central “rocking” stand.
In 1946 they only built 12 bikes, six with Webb forks and six with Brampton girder forks, and photos suggest that they had rear stands. There is therefore a possibility that bikes built in early 1947 also had rear stands, despite the change to Dowty Oleomatic forks.
Brian