If you had to name one bad point on a Scott that would be…

[Deleted User]

Just curious…

Of course we are all very happy with our fantastic Scotts and we all praise the good points of these most wonderful bikes.

But every bike(design) must have a few points that are not so good. I just wonder what you all think these are on a Scott.

To kick off myself:

After a 400+ mile trip about a week ago on my two speeder (working on a report for next Yowl) I had quite some time to ponder on this question. For me the most annoying thing on my two speeder definitely is the way it devourers primary chains.
Even with new sprockets, well adjusted alignment/tension and top quality Renolds chain the high gear chain lengthens so much during a little trip of only 400 miles that it seriously starts chewing in on the high gear drum and the flywheel at the end. And yes, I do ride full throttle a lot of the time but I always take care to shift gear neatly.
I am sure it was not Alfred’s intention of us riders having to constantly adjust the chains! I think the chain dimension was just chosen too small. It must have been strong enough on the very early machines but with power output growing, chain dimensions did not…

Now it is your turn!

Cheers,
Erik

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi.
I strongly recommend that you try a different make of chain, such as JWIS or Regina, and think that you will be pleasantly surprised. My chain supplier (Sprockets Unlimited) has a VERY low opinion of the smaller sizes of Renold chain. Sadly JWIS no longer make the 1/2″ X1/8″ size for magneto drive but you can use 3/16″ wide chain on the 1/8″ sprockets quite happily, but on some types of magneto with minimal clearance the chain can rub on the magneto body, so check that you have clearance before buying some. The JWIS chain is fine for Primary and Final Drive use though.

[Deleted User]

Hi Brian,

The Renolds chain I use now was very strongly recommended by Sprockets Unlimited. It is new old stock british made Renolds and NOT the modern kind (of which Sprockets Unlimited do indeed not have a very high opinion).
For the primary drive there currently is no other chain than the Renolds I have now and the Regina I have used before. Says SU and I trust they know. The Regina was even worse. That has split rollers that start breaking after about 700 miles. In fact I had to change my almost new chain at Abbotsholme last year because of this.

So I am not speaking about my magneto chain. That one seems to last indefinitely so far.

Cheers,
Erik

[Deleted User]

I would agree.Very short life for the primary chain on my sports also supplied by sprockets unlimited,again i do use the bike has intended but with mechanical sympathy when changing gear.

[Deleted User]

I am currently thinking about alternatives for at least the high gear chain. The low gear one lasts a lot longer.
A bigger size chain as such would not do much good I think as long as the side plates are of equal thickness. It would rapidly lengthen just as much. Solution would be a chain that is not much wider but has thicker sideplates.
Have also thought about a toothed belt (too little space in the casing I guess) or a V belt (which would bring the need of relocating the magnetodrive to the other side and would probably slip a lot due to all the oil in that region). Well, thinking about it at least keeps you busy 😀

But hey, let’s stay on topic a bit… Are ther any other faults in the Scott motorcycle?

Erik

[Anonymous]

Erik – what size is your primary you are talking about? Is it the Renolds number 10044 (1/2″ x 0.205″)? Chain wear is not usually a function of side plates stretching in use, it is more normally wear of the transverse pins to roller or side plates.

I import Wippermann but currently not in 10044 size due to what I percieve as low demand. I can however obtain pretty much any size on special order. I can always investigate for you if you wish.

Back on topic the magneto is my biggest issue, not the unit itself but the fact the chain adjustment system is poor and there is no guide/feature to align the mag base against or to stop it moving in use. Another winter job!

Cheers,
Rich

[Deleted User]

Yep, that is the size. I was told by SU that Renolds and Regina are the only ones currently making this odd chain size. But it you could look into the Wipperman option please do. No rush as the riding is almost over anyway for this season.

But how would a new chain wear so rapidly? It is always oiled (as is the rest of the bike 😉 ) and I also periodically put the chains in a tin of melted chain grease.

I do agree on the magneto issue on a 3 speed Scott. Eddie Shermer and I both converted to a toothed belt independendly at about the same time and that works absolutely fine. Does look a bit out of place but with the alloy covers no one notices. You just set it up once and thats it.

Cheers,
Erik

[Anonymous]

Indeed Wippermann manufacture the Renold 10044 equivalent, I got email confirmation a few minutes ago. I’m afraid the SU information is not correct as to only 2 people making that size.

I’m just confirming the construction details (solid rollers instead of rolled steel etc) so will let you know. I’m visiting Wippermann on 15th October so will ask for a sample anyway. If it is the same construction as all the others I stock it should be the best so I’m quite confident of adding another chain option to Scott supply.

Best regards,
Richard

[Deleted User]

Hi Erik,
If all 2 speeders consumed their chains as yours does I think it would be more talked
about.Some have lugged sidecars for years, which, I would have thought would be
harder on the chains than transporting you. Can I suggest you check the chain align-
ment and concentricity of the sprockets.You mention that the chains are marking the flywheel and drums I don’t think a worn chain is causing that.

Kind regards,

Laurie.

[Deleted User]

Another nasty job on a flyer is the float chamber to mixing chamber bolt that is about one thread to long and wont clear the flywheel causing some degree of iritation [ frosty fingers and mire in the jet ]have moded both my bikes. regards to all.

[Deleted User]

Hi Laurie,

I am on my fourth set of primary chains now since I bought the Scott. Is has done about 2.800 miles since then…

I always try to align the box as good as possible (measure the alignment to the milimeter) and when new there are no real tight spots in the chain indicating that the sprockets are not concentric. Of course the marking only starts to occur when the chains are pretty loose already. The marking really is my fault because it just indicates that I was too late with adjusting the chains again. When adjusted the chains clear the drum and flywheel perfectly.

I also wonder how others cope with this. As I always really take the best care in setting the chains up properly and I just cannot think of the cause of this excessive wear.

Cheers,
Erik

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi.
It always used to be said that “chain skip marks” on flywheels was caused by main-bearing wear allowing flywheel wobble, rather than by chain wear. There is an article about it in “Technicalities” somewhere that may be worth referring to.
Brian

[Deleted User]

I know I’m pretty green about Scotts so far but could it be something to do with the full throttle riding? High revs, vibration, flexing of components etc? I’ll be glad to be told I’m wrong.

[Deleted User]

Well, I might be a bit exaggerating by saying I am riding full throttle all the time 😉 But I do ride the bike fast just as a “performance two stroke” should be ridden in my opinion.

And the vibration is not that bad… The main bearing tracks are not that good on this bike but the flywheel itself cannot be moved besides a little bit from side to side. This side float is also a bit more than in the book but not so much it would foul the chains because of that. I hope to get the engine done this winter to eliminate this play.

I am sure I am doing something wrong here…

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi.
Further to my previous posting, I have now had the chance to look at an old two-speeder flywheel that has been affected by chain thrash. The scuff marks are on both sides of the flywheel and cover about one third of the flywheel periphery, but diametrically opposite each other on each side. The area of damage is on the same segment of the flywheel as the crankpin, showing that the firing thrust of the piston and conrod assembly deflects the flywheel out into a “wobble” with each revolution of the engine, IF the main bearings are worn. If your flywheel marks extend all the way round the flywheel then worn main bearings are probably not the cause. Do check to ensure that your chain has rollers of the correct diameter as manufacturers make chains of the same pitch and width as the old British sizes, but with different roller diameters. I was once asked to sort out a very vibratory Scott and was struggling to find the cause until the owner told me that “It was smooth until I fitted a new primary chain”. I swapped chains with one of mine, and all was smooth and sweet again! I then examined the chain and found the difference in roller diameters.
Something must be wrong as your chains should last a lot longer if of decent quality, regardless of fairly hard use.
.

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