Need Oil and Gearbox Specifications

[59Birmingham]

I’m in the process of getting a 59 Birmingham on the road again after being stored
for many years and don’t have any specs on what this bike needs so any help would
be appreciated. I tried doing a search but wasn’t getting a complete list.

Cheers…..

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Hi, What is it you need to know ? Gearbox and engine oil grades ?
Brian

[59Birmingham]

Hi Brian,

Yes, I was able to locate a source that stated Castrol XXL 40 would be suitable is this correct and is that the only grade I need?

Cheers,

Steve Gibson

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

In the engine oil tank, feeding the Pilgrim Pump, you want a good quality two-stroke oil, preferably of 40 grade viscosity. Millers, Silkolene-Fuchs, and other firms do them, and you do NOT want the type for petroil lubricated two-strokes (“premix”). You need the type for bikes with pumped oiling. Do not use a multi-grade type oil.
In the gearbox you want a 140 grade ‘straight’ gear oil, NOT one with hypoid additives. Do not overfill the gearbox. With the bike off its stand, just add oil until it just starts to come out of the oil-level hole, no more.

If the bike has been standing for years, slacken off the feed union on the underside of the pump until you see oil leaking out, then retighten the union. Also remove the ‘window frame’ from the top of the pump, and half fill each side with engine oil, to prime it, before trying to start the engine.

With FRESH petrol in a CLEAN petrol tank, turn on the petrol, and then flood the carburettor by pressing down the ‘tickler’ button on top of the float chamber, until petrol pees out of the breather hole. Close the air lever so that the air slide bottoms in the carburettor, then turn on the ignition switch, (I will assume that you have fully charged the battery !). Next kick the engine over ONCE with the throttle closed, to draw some air/fuel mixture into the engine. Then open the throttle about a quarter, and give a ‘brisk’ kick of the kickstart. In theory (!) your ‘Brum’ should now be running……

As soon as it starts check that the oil is dripping in BOTH sides of the pump, and if necessary adjust so that you have about eight full drips per minute in each side at a fast tickover engine speed. You should be able to open the air lever after less than a minute of running.

Do a quick check for petrol, oil, and coolant leaks before doing a test ride. Use about 30% antifreeze mix in the radiator, not just water.

This procedure should get you up and running, but be aware that a bike that has stood for years may well have problems with sediment in the carburettor and pipework, so make sure that everything is cleaned out before trying to start the bike. A fresh pair of spark-plugs may be a good idea….

I hope this helps. Enjoy your Scotting !
Brian

[59Birmingham]

Hi Brian,

It’s nice to feel welcomed to a forum and you just did with that reply!!!!

I live in the states Southern California to be exact and I’m not familiar with Millers, Silkolene – Fuchs but I will check online for them. I’ve already removed the carb and primer bowl took them completely apart and it was nasty slide was frozen but all is good now. Took the plugs out and tried to slowly turn over the engine to see if I could cycle it one revolution but she won’t budge!!!! So I’ve got my work cut out for me yet!!!! All in all it doesn’t surprise me where she’s at but will get her going. My dad has owned this Brum since 1970 when he bought it from a guy in Sheffield shipped it to Chicago where we were living at the time and in 1972 we took her to the TT. There’s a big story behind that trip I will share when I have a few hours to write it up.

I will keep you posted if your interested

And cheers again for your support!!!!

Steve Gibson

[Dripfeed]

Well done that man . Hallelujah Brian air lever air slide , it chokes me off when refered to as the choke even by the supposed experts of the press . Regards Dripfeed.

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

One does one’s best…. Thank you for your appreciation !
Brian

[59Birmingham]

Brian,

So far PB Blaster Isn’t breaking the pistons free, I’ve soaked it again and will wait another day, I’ve also removed the plate exposing the flywheel but there isn’t much room to grab on to anything for turning. If it turns out that I need to remove the head do you have the sequence in removing the nuts and torque settings. If I remove the Pilgrim pump is there a crank nut I could get a breaker bar on?

In not knowing this motor I’m not clear what I can be hard on and what can’t.

Japanese 2 strokes are bullet proof so you can beat on them if necessary this on the hand I don’t think so…..

Cheers!!!!

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

Your best bet initially is to leave the penetrating oil stuff for a few days, and then with the spark plugs out, put the bike in top gear. If the engine is seized you will have to get the back wheel rocking backwards and forwards as you operate the gear lever in order to get the cogs to swap. If you don’t know where the gears are positioned, from neutral it is gear lever UP for bottom gear, then DOWN for middle gear,going thru’ neutral on the way, then DOWN again for top gear, or ‘High’ gear in Scott parlance. Once the bike is in top gear push it hard backwards and forwards, alternately, using the clutch to let you build up a bit of speed, (say walking pace). Hopefully this will free things up, unless the bike has suffered a severe seizure or other calamity.
If this doesn’t work you have a major problem on your hands, so let’s hope this is just a minor ‘rust in the bores’ nip-up.
Another dodge is to remove the kickstart pedal, noting that the big retaining nut is LEFT-HAND THREAD. You should then be able to see a one half inch square end to the layshaft, onto which you can slide one of the bits out of an impact-driver tool. You will then have a hexagonal hole facing you from the other end of the bit. If you have chosen the biggest size bit you can get a good-sized length of hex bar to fit into it, which can then be secured into the chuck of an industrial size slow-speed drill….. (There are variations on this theme using a socket wrench set and long tommy bars…..)
This can then have its trigger slowly tweaked, and should put more torque into the set-up than can be achieved by standing on the kickstart. Yet another tip before doing this is to drain the coolant out of the engine and radiator, and then fill it with boiling water straight from the kettle. Hopefully this may cause a bit of sudden metal expansion in the cylinders, that might help things along. PLEASE don’t do anything like belting metal rods down the spark plug holes, or levering thru’ the crankcase door openings, as this WILL break things ! Good luck.
Brian

[Clawed]

Hello all,
I was taught a technique for dissassembling stuff that was “oxided together” by a fellow named Keith Hamilton, well respected amongst Velocette owners in Oztralia. Sadly passed away a few years ago.
It is basically heating the component to about 130 degrees Celcius and dumping it in cold water until it is cold and seeing if it moves. If it moves leave it in the water and work it until it frees up, which will not be long. If it does not move, do it again and repeat until it does. The theory is that dry oxide is full of air, and heating it up and dumping in cold water means the oxide sucks in water. Oxide full of water is mush.
My first experience of this was a 1925 B.S.A 350 frame steering head locknut, the usual domed head thing. It was rusted through to the threads on one side and the hex was only a vague outline. After about 4 heatings and dunkings it started to move and leaving it in the water the oxide washed out and I unscrewed it. The steering head thread is undamaged and as a locknut the nut is still useable, although the only spanner to fit it is the multigrips.
Geoff

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

I can’t follow that idea at all. Rust, being iron oxide, is totally insoluble in water, and I think it will be the thermal expansion/contraction that breaks its grip, rather than water getting into it. The other BIG problem with the idea is getting something as big as an engine up to 130 degrees ! I would stick with draining off, followed by refilling with boiling water, repeated daily until something moves. Getting a Scott engine to pieces when there is a bad piston seizure is VERY difficult, and getting the cylinders off the crankcase may involve grinding through the con-rods via the crankcase door openings !!!
Brian

[Dripfeed]

Each to his own , I would not dunk a hot casting in cold parney the man that I served my time with had I treated a casting in this way would most lickley have dunked me . Regards Dripfeed.

[59Birmingham]

Well after many rounds of boiling water, top gear rocking back and fourth and even removing the kick start lever and using a tommy bar no luck!!!! So I’ve called in the big guns my chemical engineers buddies and they have come up with a cocktail that should do the trick. “They say” . They basically said that nothing over the counter will free something that’s been sitting so long so there going to make me up about 10oz of this stuff. I know there’s oil in the crankcase so I can’t see that the bearings are locked but who knows… I keep you posted.

[BRIAN MARSHALL]

It’s called Coca-Cola…… (which contains Phosphoric Acid I’m told….)

[59Birmingham]

You know it just might work ….. 🙂

I will share this potion if it turns out to be a winner as I’m sure others will come across this situation in the future and need a good remedy.

Stay Tuned…….

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